Just got my 10's in the mail. i was planning on going with angle boxes sized similar to the flat packs. After reading above posts, i wonder if i should just go with an easy build box and stick with square at ~8" deep. These are for 4 rear surrounds which are matched to 3 1099s, as well as planned V10s for Atmos in my soffits.
Is there a frequency response plot to show the severity of the peak in this smaller enclosure (compared to the angled enclosure)? I am thinking about using these shallow sealed enclosures (14x14x7 for the Volt 10LX) hidden in columns for surround duties in a dedicated HT. I prefer not to go any deeper on the columns. I am trying to figure out what I might be loosing sound wise, and if it would make any difference for surround speakers... Thanks!
mtg90, I know many people say you can use the volts as mains, but I haven't seen too many people do it with anything but the 10LX. I have a pretty small space 9x11, and was thinking that the coaxial (Volt 6) might be a little better that say a fusion 8 waveguide as I am only ~7 feet away from them. My question is about a center channel. Usually I wouldn't want to change the baffle width but can you describe the effects of putting the volt six on its side? Just to limit the height and get it under a screen? My hope was that I could use these for a while as my mains (crossover around 80) and once I get a bigger space rebuild the boxes and move them back to do surround duties. Thanks for all of your advice in this thread.
There are no issues putting the Volt-6 on its side to fit below a screen. You could change the baffle width if you needed to make is slightly narrower.
Matt, Do you recommend the passive radiator version of the 10LX over the new ported flat pack version? If so, why? Does the PR placement give it any of the benefits of a normal MTM speaker? I have two of the ported now and am thinking of making them into the PR version and using them as mains instead of surrounds as I originally intended. Or would I be better off using the Cinema-8?
on the sealed atmos flat packs for the volt 6's, would it make a difference regarding atmos if i surface mounted them on the ceiling or if i recessed them into the ceiling to get them as high as possible? If i should recess, how much do i need to leave proud of the ceiling so i dont screw up the baffle correction.
The PR version does not suffer from any port resonances that the ported version might have but it looses some output near tuning in the same enclosure volume as the passive radiators take more energy to move the port air spring. Since the Passive radiators only work at low frequencies near tuning where they are effectively working as a single source you do not get any benefits from the MTM spacing as you would if they were true woofers crossed higher to a separate coax. The Cinema-8 might be a better sounding speaker as mains especially the higher frequencies because of the proper waveguide. I would recess the speakers and mount them flush if you can, the volt-6's have very little baffle step correction as it was assumed that most would be using some form of auto EQ in their AVR to help fix any placement issues. Flush mounting the driver eliminates any diffraction or SBIR issues that normal enclosures suffer from and is the idea way to mount them.
I like to watch movies at reference levels and am wondering if the Volt-6's would be able to keep up in terms of their output capabilities if used for the rear speakers? I used to have a pair of Paradigm Focus bookshelf speakers back there and the woofer in one of them was damaged by me pushing them too hard.
They should keep up quite well as long as you use a crossover of at least 80hz with higher crossover points allowing more headroom. The Volt-6 has a good 3dB advantage in sensitivity which means it requires half the input power to reach the same volume level as the Paradigm, combine that with the Volt-6's ability to handle roughly three times the input power and you can figure that it will be much more durable at high playback levels.
Is there a preferred location to mount the crossover in the Volt 6 angled ported flat pack? I've seen pics of the crossover right behind the speaker and then also mounted on the side. EDIT: Well looks like it will only fit on the back wall of the cabinet so that's what I did.
I'm building Volt 10LX's and did not solder the wires to the disconnects. I want to go back in and do this but the woofer and cabinet are sealed. Is there any way to get these open without damaging the woofer? I really don't see a way, I have nothing to grab onto and get leverage.
It should be ok if you used crimp style female quick disconnects: Or did you do something else? You might have to get under the driver from one of the screw holes on the frame with a hook style tool to pull it out: I have fashioned something similar out of a small cheap screwdriver, the kind that is included free with things meant to be assembled by the user. Then used some channel locks to get extra leverage to pull up on the driver. The other option is to try and get in from the other side with a long tool or rod/dowel if the terminals like up with the back of the driver at all then try and tap it out that way.
I used the female disconnects you pictured, however I did not crimp...or solder. Sigh, mistakes were made. Speakers work and sound amazing but for peace of mind I definitely need to go back in there. Thank you so much for the suggestions. I just got some small pry bars but they may be too big. Will look for those hook tools.
new member, long time lurker. I am gonna build 4 volt 6's for an in-ceiling (9'4" high)application in my media room. I plan on recessing them in the ceiling so the baffle is flush with the ceiling. I have a fixed 80 hz cross, so the question is, do i use the ported version or can i used the sealed version and make the box deeper to achieve a lower extension? The depth of the sealed box could be as large as needed, id like to keep the baffle 8 1/2 x 8 1/2 if i could. Your knowledge is valuable,Thanks!
A volt-6 in a sealed box will roll off around 120-130hz no matter how large the box is made as that is just as low as the rolloff of that driver gets when sealed. So if you are trying to get to 80hz ported is the way to go.
how about the T/S specs so we can model that driver? I don't think I've seen them posted anywhere, but I could be missing them.
What's the recommended front baffle width, with respect to BSC, for Volt-10LX's? A 14"x14" baffle is included, the flat pack is 13" wide and the PR design in this thread is 12" wide. I'm currently finalizing a tower design using the Volt-10LX and a sub. The enclosure for the Volt will be ported. I will not be utilizing the baffle included in the kit.
Would it be possible to get a basic cross section diagram of the volt 10 driver + denovo? I see that it wants a 5.5" depth from the inside of the baffle, but if I'm doing an angled enclosure, I don't know how much of the space I'll have that length, so having the widths/diameters for the various sections would be pretty helpful. My ideal plan would be to have an enclosure that could fit between ceiling joists, so 13.5" deep, and have the baffle be angled along the length of the room axis, toward the user. So not angled xy toward user, but maybe just x. So one end of the baffle would extend about 5" out of the ceiling, and then end up flush with ceiling on the mlp side. The joist is probably ~7 inches with gap. So with that ~22degree angle trying to figure if I have the required depth.
Received my 8lx flat packs...Stupid question, what are the 8 bushings for...crossover mount? And do you guy put anything on the inside lip of the plastic port or do you just push it in and that's it? I will be using the 8's for rear surround...can I use the 6's as side surrounds or would it be better to just use the 8's? 6's and 8's timber matched. I figure i would be sitting closer to the side surrounds. Thanks
Matt, you mention damping to the sides and behind the driver, but behind the driver is the only place I can fit the crossover in the Volt-6 flat pack. Would I then want to glue a piece of foam to the crossover? https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B79NpqON4eUxbS1nUGhlUHVsTVU
Is there a graph of the Volt-6 frequency response? I'd like to compare it to the Volt-10 & Volt-10 LX graph. I don't know if something went wrong with my crossover assembly for both my Volt-10 LX speakers, it appears 100% correct but they just sound off, to me. Especially when compared to the Volt-6 and 1099s. The tweeters seem a little brighter and the upper mid-range seems a bit lacking in comparison. I've compared my original Volt-10s to the LX models, and I do notice a difference with the tweeters for sure. Anything I need to re-check, or equalization I need to apply? Is the midrange side of things more due to the size of driver? Volt-6 are quite close to the 1099's midrange size, but maybe that doesn't mean anything and I'm just getting myself confused. In my system, the Volt-6 seem to be pretty darn close to being of match with the 1099s in the mid and highs department, though lacking in depth of vocals, which the Volt-10 LX in the ported cabinets do fantastic with. (May be due to the Volt-6 being mounted up high on my back wall?) Something a MBM could help remedy maybe? The Volt-10 LX serve as my side surrounds and the Volt-6 serve as the rear back surrounds.
Can anybody confirm the diameter of the volt 6 mounting flange? I want to use them for surrounds built into my pillars that are very narrow. I plan on making my own baffles so I could make them as narrow as possible.