Volt-6/8/10 Coaxials Assembly Tips & Info Thread

Discussion in 'Speaker Kit Information' started by Matt Grant, Dec 28, 2014.

  1. This would be a good design for a soundbar, IIRC tuning would end up in the 65-70hz range. The PR design does not give you quite as much bass extension as an ported design in the same box volume due to the slight mechanical losses in the passive radiators but it's only a few Hz.

    There should not be any sag as the PR's do not need any added mass for this design. But everything is forward facing so unless they were mounted with the drivers pointing up or down there wouldn't be any sag anyway.
     
  2. The ported enclosure would be a little large for wall mounting for most people which is why you don't see an angled ported flat pack option. There might be a straight sealed flat pack option in the future but right now if you needed it to sit flat on the wall the atmos flat pack would be your best bet, or you could build a sealed enclosure with the standard baffle. Not that the atmos enclosure works just fine for regular surround channels as well.
     
  3. Theses are the ports used in the ported flat pack option:
    https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-cabinet-port-tube-2-1-2-id-x-8-1-2-l-flared--260-478

    Yes the dimensions are external with the box built from 3/4" material, though you could use 1/2" if you braced it well. Also you can make it deeper if you want a little more extension, no adjustment to the ports needed.
     
  4. I was thinking of getting the volt 6 for my surround. I have the insignia ns-b2111 bookshelves from a few years ago. I noticed the physical dimensions on them and they look a lot like the volt6. Wild idea - should I try putting my volt6 drivers and crossover into this? The speaker cabinet is in great shape.

    Here are the specs for the insignia

    https://www.cnet.com/products/insignia-ns-b2111-speakers/specs/
     
  5. I'm looking for advice on appropriate front speakers to pair with the Volts.

    I'm planning a 125w/ch 9.1 Atmos in a 18' x 12' x ~7.5' room with the screen on the long side of the room. I have plenty of room behind the AT screen. Before room treatments and carpet in this basement room with concrete floor presently, I can comfortably reach reference levels, so I don't think I necessarily need high efficiency drivers. Or do room treatments and appropriate carpet substantially increase power requirements?

    I don't ever plan to listen to only the left/right stereo speakers, and will rely on the AVR virtual surround processing if I ever sit down to listen to music. My hope is to do the Volt 10's in-wall/ceiling IB. I assume the driver depth is sufficiently small to fit into standard wall frames?

    Which fronts would be a good match for my needs? I'd been considering building the speakers into a baffle wall.

    Erich recommended SEOS waveguides to to minimize ceiling reflections. I was considering adding ceiling absorbers in the front of the room per Floyd Toole's optional recommendation. Would this eliminate the necessity for narrow vertical dispersion and allow me to use the Volts in front?

    I believe Toole also recommended ideally using identical drivers everywhere.

    I was attracted to using the Volts as fronts because it seemed unnecessary to toe them inward, making behind-screen construction easier. With the SEOS waveguides, I should probably toe the speakers in?

    Thanks,
    Jeff
     
  6. I am thinking of upgrading from 7.2 to 7.2.4 by adding four ceiling mounted speakers for atmos. Since my side surround is the Volt 6 which I am still building , should I get volt6 for the atmos as well. I have read that Volt 10 works better for IB compared to Volt 6. I could ceiling mount the Volt 6 with enclosure if I find that it won't interfere with my projector. Otherwise I will have to mount it into the ceiling. I assume people cutout the drywall and mount it to the rafters. I have insulated attic there. Will create a lot of mess! Also is it better to get the angled enclosure and mount it so that the driver is aimed at the MLP? One last question, do atmos speakers need to timbre match the mains?
     
  7. I got my first Volt 6 angled enclosure build done. Sounds great. I am struggling with picking a mount for it. I need to wall mount it. Any ideas. I bought a mount from Amazon but it requires me to screw in a plate into the speaker in four places. They supplied just regular screws that are designed to go into a threaded insert. Can I just use wood screws and screw into the back? I don't want to damage the speakers and I don't want it falling down either!
     
  8. Matt,

    First post here, so I want to start by thanking you and Erich for all the help you provide to the DIY community. I wouldn’t be a speaker DIY’er without you two.

    I was going to purchase Volt 6 kits and flatpacks for surrounds and Atmos in my theater (22’L x 15’W x 11’H). They will be installed in columns. After reading in this forum about the option of using Volt 10’s as IB speaker, I was wondering if I’m better off going with Volts 10 IB or Volts 6 in ported enclosure. I couldn’t afford to make the columns large enough for Volt 10 cabinets, but I could probably fit them as IB. The columns are 14” wide, with a 12” cutout, and 9" deep. Should I stick with the original plan, of go with Volt 10’s?

    Thanks!
     
  9. Hello, I am in the process of building 8 x ported volt-8 kits in order to upgrade the media room to a full Atmos system. I really need to make my 2 side-surrounds more shallow to fit the space. Depth is my limiting factor. I intend to build my own back boxes for these. Erich had indicated that I could cut he ports a bit shorter to allow for this. So, my intention was the keep the internal volume the same (.6cf) and cut the ports. I realize a change in the port length would change the tuning. Question:
    --How much can I cut them and keep them sounding much the same as all the others?
    --How much space is necessary btw the end of the port and the back wall?

    Thank You!
     
  10. Target depth is around 6.5" - 7". My current design has me cutting the ports to 4", and leaving 2" or space btw them. This gives me a total depth of 6.5". Easy to adjust though.
     
  11. I read Matt's comments to Brady, where he was able to get the 10's to fit because of extra drywall. What's the most straightforward way to get these mounted in wall given standard drywall thickness and stud depth (i.e. 3.5"+.5" = 4".) Can I just glue two or three of the prefab baffles together? Or just make my own little frame/spacer out of the right material?

    I'd like to minimize the depth they're protruding from the wall--ideally to about 2-4 inches, which would then be roughly flush with the absorbers and diffusers mounted on the wall.
     
  12. If you stack a few baffles on top one another the backside of the woofer will be too closed off inside the short tube that is formed from all the circular cutouts. So you need to have panels with progressively larger holes as it moves away from the woofer in order to give it enough room to breathe. You should be safe with the baffle + two layers of 3/4" MDF/Plywood but three would give a little more room for error.
     
    Jeff Axelrod likes this.
  13. #188 Jeff Axelrod, Jan 6, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2018
    Thanks! One basic question: How would I fasten this to the wall? It looks like the Volt 10's weigh about 20 pounds before adding the extra wood for the spacer. Do people just use drywall anchors and screw through the baffle?

    Is this great ceiling idea overkill for a wall or would it also make sense for the in-wall installation?

    [​IMG]
     
  14. If your wall was deep enough it would work to do something like that.

    For fastening the driver/baffles to the wall I would place a few blocks behind the drywall and screw through the baffles and drywall into those blocks. That will clamp the baffle to the drywall over a large area and will be much more secure then normal dywall anchors. You will want to predrill a hole through the baffles so the screw can spin somewhat freely. That way it doesn't tighten in the baffle layers prematurely before the blocks behind the drywall clamp everything down.
     
  15. Ah yes, that is much simpler--thanks for the great tips.
     
  16. Working on Volt 6 speakers. Got things hot glued down and soldering done. Hooked up to reciever and all I have is treble, no bass? I've looked over pictures, posts, etc. and can't seem to figure it out. What am I missing here?
     
  17. This is a common issue if you tried soldering to the coated part of the wires on the inductors or coils (usually red or gold colored). You need to solder only to the silver pre-tinned ends of those wires in order to get a good electrical connection as the solder won't melt though the coating. If you cut them short you may need to scrape the thin insulating coating off the ends of the wires and re-solder. Usually a utility blade held perpendicular to the surface will scrape it off easily.
     
  18. That was it. Thanks Matt. I thought i was super careful but it didnt take but just a little bit to adjust a wire and boom! Excellant product and customer service! I will be ordering my Fusion 893 soon for my LCR.
     
    18Hurts likes this.
  19. Matt,

    What are your thoughts on using a Volt-6 as a center in a situation where the MLP is only 80" away? What is the minimum height the front baffle could be and still fit the driver? I would like to use your stock crossover to simplify the build. What enclosure volume and tune would you recommend?

    Thanks!
     
  20. It should work fine for that.

    You could possibly get away with a 7" high baffle if you used 1/2" material for the top and bottom, or 7.25" if using 3/4".

    If you want a little more bass output from the volt-6 then the stock enclosure you could build it around 0.3 - 0.35cuft and tune it to 70hz which results in an f3 around 63-65hz, the stock ported enclosure has an f3 of ~80hz.
     
  21. Thanks. My main concerns were:

    1. That coaxials might not be suited for CC use, if IM distortion were detrimental to clarity of dialogue.
    2. That if I changed the enclosure size and/or tune, I'd need to modify the crossover circuit.
    3. That if I tried to push it lower and increased woofer excursion, I'd increase IM distortion.

    Are these concerns unfounded or at least minor enough so as not to make much of a difference?
     
  22. You don't normally run into IM distortion issues when high-passing at 80hz. You have to be cranking it and have a lot of bass heavy content to get the cone really moving for it to become noticeable. Under most circumstances when it's just dialog being played back there will be little to no IM distortion as the cone will hardly be moving.

    The enclosure volume and tuning usually has little impact on the crossover, the baffle shape can have some but for this it will be minor.
     
  23. Thank you, Matt. Someone on AVS also suggested adding 2 DS175-PR passive radiators as an option.

    Again assuming that I am using your stock Volt-6 crossover, would you recommend one approach over the other (ported vs. PR) in this center channel scenario? If you give me your ideal enclosure size (and tuning in the case of ported) for whatever approach you would go with, I will build it exactly to your spec.

    Thanks again.
     
  24. Yeah the stock crossover will work fine if you wanted to use the passive radiators. There is little difference in cone excursion between the passive radiators and a ported enclosure as they are both bass reflex designs. Really just comes down to a matter of personal preference of how you want the enclosure to look.

    I do mention the PR design towards the bottom of post #2. For the Volt-6 with PRs if you wanted to keep the baffle short, you could build the box so that the external dimensions are 20" wide x 7.25" high x 7" deep using 3/4" material.

    For a ported enclosure you could build it the same size if the width is not an issue, then use a 2" diameter port that is 3.5" long, or the 1-7/8" flared port that parts express sells cut to 3" long. Could also use two 1.5" ports at 4.5" long, possibly getting away with two of the the 1-1/2" x 4" flared ports Parts express sells.

    If you don't want it quite as wide you could build it 14" wide x 7.25" high x 10" deep.
     
  25. #200 aron7awol, Feb 13, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2018
    Other than the height restriction, I am not really limited much on size. I can easily do 20" wide. After seeing your response, I'll go with ported rather than PR, and I would like to do two ports so that I can put one on each side and make it symmetrical.

    I saw PE sells 1-1/8" flared ports @ 6.5" long which I could cut to size (2.5"?), and 1" flared ports @ 4" long (cut to 2"?). Maybe one of those options would work well for dual ports?
     

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