Titan Speaker Kits

Hey Matt, would there be a sound difference when mixing original birch and MDF low frequency boxes? I'm really trying to figure our how to fit these Titans as surrounds. I have 3 LCR and would really like all 7 or better yet Atmos to be the same speaker. Not easy to find baltic birch sheets. The original 21" depth will have me down to two chairs instead of 3 for a row. My goal is to run the same speaker at full range for the base layer.

 

MDF is perfectly fine, shouldn't make much difference at all.

 

Hi @Matt Grant. Steve Smith at Home Theater Gurus is designing my room. He's asked me if the waveguide on the Titan can be toed-in. Can that be done independently from the rest of the enclosure? He's trying to figure out if the whole cabinet needs to be turned so he knows how much to allow for the wall in the front of the room.

 

Yes the top waveguide portion can be toed-in independently from the woofer cabinet.

 

Hey Matt, I have a fairly early set of 3 Titan 615 standard version speakers... I love these speakers so thank you for the work you anf Erik have done on these. I have 2 or 3 questions that maybe you can help with. 1) I have one 15 inch driver that was damaged in a move and I would be interested to know if there is a replacement availible. 2) What revisions were made to the cross-over and how do they affect the performance of the speaker? I am currenlty in the process of building new enclosures for these, I figured I'd check on if any updates available would be worth investing in. 3) Lastly, Since I bought the standerd versions I have the lesser performing of the 2 availible 15" drivers. Is it possible to upgrade to the better driver and if so, are they still availible?

Thakn you

 

Awesome! I have the "standard" verson of the Titan with the lesser awesome of the two woofers that were offered... Which do you have availible? I'll likely send email and ask the same! thank you

 

Awesome! I have the "standard" verson of the Titan with the lesser awesome of the two woofers that were offered... Which do you have availible? I'll likely send email and ask the same! thank you

 

Erich, do you still have the 21" cabinets and are you planning on putting them on the site? Any chance of getting a price and specs (size, tuning, etc)?

Mickey

 

My chairs sit pretty low so ear height is around 36" depending on if chair is reclined or upright, on the titan 615 it puts the tweeter kind of high. I flipped the upper section over with the tweeter on bottom and that puts the tweeter a little low so I temporarily spaced the upper section up a couple inches to listen and see. It's a subtle difference but the tweeter being closer to on axis vertically does add some high frequency response that is nice. These have the newer crossovers with the mods already incorporated.

Interested in thoughts in general with the mid on top, and I think I'll make some bases that raise the whole speaker a couple of inches and run them flipped. I guess it's better looking to put the spacer under the woofer section and raise the whole cabinet than to raise just the upper section.

I've had the crossovers sitting in the back of the upper section but they don't fit there with the tweeter on bottom so I think I'll mount the crossovers in the woofer cabinet as well and use a speakon four pole to feed the uppers.

 

Hey Erich, that’s how I’ve had it but probably not enough tilt. I’ve noticed that on my mini statements with TM arrangement it tends to sound better above the tweeter, but that doesn't seem to apply to the titans the same way, probably due to more controlled directivity. I might try the more tilt and see, just don't want the upper sections to vibrate off, things move around in here if they aren't nailed down.

I've thought about coming up with a screw type arrangement to fix the upper section to the cabinet and have the back able to be adjusted, just haven't figured out what to do that would require minimal mods to the cabinets. Maybe magnets in front and an adjustable foot or feet in back.

 

More tilt is good, it's a better solution I think because if I can ever get to building the 818s that will go in this room they will need the tilt as well, and flipping the top section is dependent on the height of the woofer cabinet, but tilt is not. Now just need a simple way to attach upper section, rubber feet are moving around and just not great. Magnets and adjustable feet I think, if anyone has a better solution post it up.

 

If you want adjustable tilt I'd use a pair of 90 degree brackets at the front of the cabinet, screwed down to the cabinet with a bolt on each side into the waveguide bracket. Something that looks a bit like this:


Then use a single adjustable L-Bracket at the center back which would allow you to adjust the angle (may require some minor bending):

 

@Matt Grant thanks, that black bracket could work at the back and be adjustable. Maybe some of the magnets with screw holes at the front, they could be hidden. I tilted them down and it was noticeably brighter, the Dirac had probably boosted the highs. It was interesting and not subtle. Got around to re-running Dirac and it helped with that. It's an incremental improvement but worth the effort for sure.

 

Hey @Matt Grant I just bought three of the titan 818s. Very excited to get the flat packs to build these. I see that 2 inch acoustic foam or denim insulation is recommended with the titan 818 flat pack. I'm having a hard time finding 2 inch foam and I have spare rockwool safe n sound insulation left over from building some acoustic panels. Can I use the rockwool with some spray adhesive to line the inner panels or is that not recommended? Would it be better to use 1 inch sonic barrier foam from parts express?

 

Rockwool will work just fine.

 

A pair of Titan 818s are on order and potential build options raise a number of questions. How does the woofer perform in a sealed enclosure and what would be the optimal volume? Can the woofer enclosure be rear vented? Can a slot port replace the vnt assuming the 30Hz tuning frequency is maintained? Any thoughts would be most helpful.

 

The woofer will work in a sealed cabinet, an internal volume of 2.5-3cuft would yield an f3 around 80Hz.

Yes to both rear venting and/or slot port assuming you maintain a tuning in the 30-35Hz range.

 

I am about to build some woofer boxen for the 815lx woofer. I'd like to make my woofer box not so deep as it is going into a smaller and not so deep theater / visual screen space.... but in a larger overall room.

My theater screen board / wood parts start at 26" vertical inches and are around 2" tall, so about total 28" until free of wood interference before an eventual 815 waveguide.

I am thinking of making a 19.5" wide box, that is about 15" total deep, and around 30 or 31" total tall / Height, to make sure I get 4 cf or greater with a slot port with a 40 hrtz tune.... But I would like to have the woofer not partially blocked by part of the theater outer edge screen frame.

How far-ish with various levels of "ish" can the 815 woofer be distanced from the wave guide / center line or actual edge of woofer, can the woofer be distanced from the waveguide for best, or even better results? I'd like the option to go thinner for more cubic volume and keep the 15" woofer below the screen 1.5" wood edge if possible. Like maybe 5" at most? Thanks!!!

 

I'm having trouble trying to figure out what exactly you want to do.

Are you talking about a horizontal offset between the waveguide center and the woofer center? Or vertical offset between the waveguide and woofer, or perhaps some kind of depth difference between the two?

 

Basically, on the 815lx build. How far apart can you have the 15" woofer from the waveguide / mid-range speaker before you will have sound issues from a seating distance of 10' or so?

I was confused by my previous post also ... I need to learn to get to the point....

At about 26" height on my future possible 30" high total height 815lx ported box woofer build, I have part of my A.T. screen wood edge / frame going to block my new 815lx woofer a bit... I also plan on putting on some kind of woofer protector, such as a metal frame or a loose fabric frame...

Thanks again.

 

You can increase the vertical distance between them several inches without issue, a grill over the woofer is also not a problem.

 

Thanks!

I think I will drop the woofer down below my wood edge custom made DIY A.T. screen about 2 inches. Instead of the upper part of the woofer being blocked by part of the A.T. screen, this will clear the woofer of the A.T. screen... and only add 2 inches between the waveguide and the woofer edge on this 815lx build from my previous design of equal distance between the 19.5" wide box edge and 1.5" between woofer and top of the ported woofer box and the start of the waveguide. Below the red bar is the lower edge of the at screen. These are at scale. 30" t

 

Any suggestions on how far apart the dual PCB crossover should be from each other on these 815lx dual PCBs? I think I want to mount them outside of the ported woofer box for the 15" and on the base or so of the waveguide holder... How far apart should they be, if they were to be vertically held behind the waveguide. Maybe the larger of the two horizontal and the shorter of the two vertical? Keep them at least 3" apart from any component parts?

I was suprised to see two separate PCBs for this crossover