Volt Coaxial Speaker Kits

OK, I can increase the size of the enclosure by ~5% to make up for the shorter ports, if that makes sense?

 

Yes you can if you want, but the slightly higher tuning is not much to be concerned about if you plan on crossing over at or above 80hz.

 

Looking to do a volt10 as an inwall. Its only a 2x4 depth. Is this even feasible?

 

No it's 5.5" deep so it won't fit in a 2x4 wall, even a 2x6 won't work with the Volt-10 without some kind of extra spacer. The only one that could possibly fit in a standard 2x4 wall is the Volt-6 but even then you need to add about 1" to the depth of the 2x4, say 1/2" for drywall + 1/2" baffle.

 

Two somewhat related related questions.

1) What is the minimum power I can apply to these and them still sound decent?
2) Can anyone recommend a corresponding inexpensive USB amp to power them?

I have a set of Volt 6s that I've only just now assembled after years of sitting on the shelf. They're intended for an ATMOS install, but until I get around to that, I'd like to use them for my desktop speakers. I'm running an iMAC, with no optical outputs, so rather than using several converters, I'd like to just use a small amp with a built in USB and DAC.

Any suggestions are much appreciated!

 

For anyone wondering this was answered here:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/2958774-volt-6-minimum-power-usb-amp-rec.html

 

My basement finishing project just started. I bought six Volt 8's with the sealed flat pack boxes. Four are four Atmos in ceiling. The other two are going to be in wall surrounds. I have a few questions.

1. I'm planning to stuff the boxes. The contractor will mount the boxes in the studs (12" centers, so the 10" boxes fit like a glove), and then do the drywall. How the heck to I get the stuffing in the boxes? Can I spray adhesive it in? Maybe stuff the boxes, they tissue paper over the hole. After the holes are cut in the drywall, then punch through? I'm really not looking forward to trying to stuff the boxes when they're in the ceiling. Hoping someone has already fought this battle.

2. For the surrounds, I bought the sealed boxes. I'm curious if if should switch to ported enclosures. The sealed boxes will definitely fit. For ported boxes, I'll have enough depth on one wall for sure, but the other one is going to be just enough, or too short. Is it a huge deal if I stick with the sealed boxes?

 

Hi Matt- Do you have any information you can provide about the new “Version 2” designs on the DIYSOUNDGROUP site? (Design goals, use recommendations, trade offs, etc).

Looks like they include an upgraded compression driver. Do you have the full depth of these new units with this comp driver?

 

1: If you are using polyfill there will be enough friction to stay in the enclosure when upside down so you don't have to worry about it falling out. Same is true for most damping materials if cut large enough to touch the sides.

2: Sealed boxes will do fine as surrounds, you may want to experiment with the crossover point as 100-120hz would likely be ideal for those but you can manually set them to 80hz as well.

 

Updated posts on the first page with info for the new v2 Volts.

 

I received my volt 10v2’s and am going to give a go at installing the extra capacitor needed for atmos in the small sealed enclosure. Looking at the pics on the first page I only see info for installing with the previous model crossover and not the version 2. I don’t want to mess this up anything differently or even a video anywhere on this. I did buy the pre made crossovers so that parts done.

 

All you need to do is connect the 400uF capacitor in series with the woofer, so attach one end of the capacitor to the positive side of the LF terminal block and the other end to the positive wire going to the woofer.

 

Matt, I've just ordered two of the new Volt 6s and intend building the angled enclosure however I intend to increase the width of the enclosure from 8" to 9" and increase the depth on one side only from 8"to 9" to give me the angle I need when used as rear surrounds.

Do I need to change the stock port length and if so by how much?

 

Pardon my ignorance but to just make sure, I just screw down the +LF terminal block on one end of the capacitor and then solder the other end of the capacitor to the speaker cable that runs to the + woofer wire?

 

And hopefully this will be my last question, I have about a 1/4 of dynamat lined inside my cabinet. Is it necessary to use the spacers when mounting the crossover? I will need a bit longer screw if so to get through the dynamat.

 

Yep that's it. If you have a version of Dynamat with the foil backing you need to make sure the crossover stays elevated off that surface. Or determine if it's electrically conductive or not, if it is the crossover connections will short out on the material.

The tuning will go down slightly with the larger internal volume and stock port length but it should be fine to leave the port as is.

 

Wondering if you could make the sketch up files available for these? Would like to build 4 for in ceiling volt 6's.
Thanks
Curt

 

Matt,

Thanks for your help with my custom Volt-6 center. I used the two 1.5" ports @ 4" that you recommended, and built it at 0.38cf to tune it at 70Hz (if I modeled it correctly). It sounds great and I am very happy with it.

The next phase of my project is designing four custom Volt-6 Atmos speakers, which will mount flat on a wall and be angled at 45 degrees in two dimensions.

Edit: I was able to shrink the design a bit, and I'm now at an internal volume of 0.286 cf. I think the stock slot port will tune that box to ~68Hz, which seems just about perfect.

 

For sharing: I added the cap to the v1 board for my sealed Volt-10 April-7-2018 per below.
Simply de-soldered the woofer positive lead, pushed one end of the cap wire thru the now open hole and soldered that to board back, snip it nicely, soldered the woofer positive lead wire to cap, tied with strap, basic series connection.


and here's pre-mounting with spacers before stuffing went in, having that 90 degree angle tool comes in handy many times

 

Apologies if i missed this. I did give the thread a read through, but may have skimmed over it if it is there. Are you guys adhering the port somehow? Gluing it to the opening? If so, what glue?

 

Port does not need any glue. It fits tight into the cut out. I have never had any problem with any of ports and I installed in both the 6's and 10's.
Hope that helps.

 

Do i have the correct components? When compared to the image on page one, my LF C1 and LF C2 have different specs.
My LF C1 reads 1.0microF 250v 5%
My LF C2 reads 15microF 100v.

Additionally, can I leave the HF L2 on the plastic spool and covered with the black wrap? Or is it supposed to be removed like in the image on the first page?

 

This was answered on a different forum but I'll add the info here as well for future reference.

The manufacturer or brand of the components may change based on availability but any substitute components shall function identically to the ones shown on the reference photo. If the air core inductor has a plastic bobbin do not remove the black tape or bobbin from the air core inductor as they hold the windings on kind of inductor together.

 

Hey Matt,

I'd like to order the Volt 8s and place them directly into my ceiling with an open baffle. Is there anything I need to know about the crossover for this set up? I plane to back the area with pink insulation or perhaps acousta stuff.

Also, Is the diameter of the full face exactly 8"?

 

You don't have to do anything special to any of the passive crossovers on the Volts if you run the woofers in an infinite baffle. That said the Volt-6 and Volt-8 will only play down to about 120hz in an IB or sealed enclosure so it's best to crossover to a sub at or above that range. Only the Volt-10 will play down to and can crossover at 80hz in a sealed or IB alignment.