Volt Coaxial Speaker Kits

Thanks i have 6 Marty's and 2 vbss subs. I'm going to keep them sealed i dont have the space for ported after looking into it. Just wondering what enclosure size for my limited space i have. I didn't think the Ht-8's would be the elusive Ht-8s Ha.

Thanks
John

 

Yeah just keep them sealed in that space, not enough volume for ported to give you any benefits.

 

Hi Matt,
I just bought 10 Volts. Four 8s for Atmos and six 10s for surrounds. Is it worth putting them in boxes before putting them into the walls and ceiling? I don't have a need to do it, a simple baffle would get me the depth and support that I need to support the speaker and crossover.
The rest of the setup is Titan 615LXs for LCR, and then two 21" Full Martys and two 21" Devastators. I don't need bass from any of the Volts, they just need to fill the room. I don't have columns or anything to put them into, but I'm not opposed to building boxes and then sinking them into the wall that way if there was a significant benefit to doing it.
Thanks.

 

No much benefit for the 10's if crossing at 80hz, the 8's will need to be crossed at ~120hz if used IB/Sealed. If you want those to get down to 80hz they need to be used in a ported enclosure, ~0.5 - 0.8cuft tuned to 65-75hz.

 

And crossing them in the Marantz is adequate, right? I’m not trying to change the crossover that Erich is sending me...

 

You're correct. The Marantz will separate the bass content from the signal at the specified frequency and route that portion to the subwoofer(s). The crossover internal to the speaker only acts on the remaining signal that reaches it.

 

Thanks Greg. This deliver will be the last ones I need to complete the collection (other than some JBLs for the boss)... and then I can move on to projector and screen. The temporary space is getting crowded.

 

Jack, I have a similar space in my basement, so we both must be in a similar phase of our home theater build. Three 1099's and four Volt 10's are do to arrive today or tomorrow, so things are really getting cramped! Please continue to post pictures as your build progresses.

 

Had to get the seating riser and soundstage built before I could put this wall up or getting the material in would have been a pain. Making progress on the theater while enjoying the basement... can’t beat that!

 

So which components are we supposed to have? I have the 3.0uF, 15uF and 12.5ohm but my schematic is different. Do I have the correct parts and wrong diagram or vice-versus? I ask because my components don’t match Matt’s picture of the crossover for the v2’s. Was there a recent update to the crossovers since then?

 

I believe you have the correct parts, just wrong sheet. I think the sheet that you were sent was an older version. I have the same issue with the volt6s I got.

 

Yeah those are the correct parts.

Parts Express removed a bunch of the Xicon 10w resistor values so many of those used in the kits have largely changed to Dayton. Dayton didn't sell a 12 Ohm so that got changed to the nearest value of 12.5 Ohm. There are a few other kits with minor changes like that where the small change in value has little to no impact on the sound or frequency response.

Also I had used a PE branded 1uF cap (red) on that crossover and Erich may ship out the kits with Dayton 1uF caps (black and yellow).

 

So if I am reading all of this correctly you could just grab the Volt 10, cut a hole in the ceiling and mount them in as long as you are crossing over at 80hz? (maybe just toss some foam or insulation above the speaker)

What is the height of the Volt 10/8?
I can't find this on the site.....I am sure I have enough clearance from my ceiling to the upstairs but don't want to take any chances!

I have 4xvbss and working on 1099's up front, I currently have some Polk Atmos speakers that I just cut two hole into my ceiling and tossed in......would love to swap up to a pair of Volt 10's before year end.

 

You need to have a mounting solution like a baffle that you screw to the framing or some blocking placed on the backside of the drywall but essentially yes you just need a hole, no enclosure just like in wall/ceiling speakers.

Driver depth posted here.

 

Thank you - I have no idea how I missed that.
My ceiling is fancy plywood with a spread on like plaster coating and some weird wainscoting/beadboard running across...I should be able to get some cross beams or something going to anchor into.

 

If it’s actually plywood, 1/2” or better, you probably don’t need a baffle, but I’d still probably recommend one. I think the sentiment here is that your typical 5/8” drywall ceiling isn’t going to handle it.

 

I'll probably add backing still but it is indeed plywood, I had to take my jigsaw to cut through....wood everywhere, lol.

 

Just picked up 4 volt 8's to use as surround speakers. Trying to nail down the box. Editing this to rephrase my question. Is the recommended box volume given for the volts with or without the driver? If its with the driver, then anyone know the volume of the driver?

 

Ended up just shooting for .65 cu ft of internal volume without any bracing or drivers, should get me in teh ballpark I figure.

 

Anyone have any plans for a ported volt 10? My set is in the angled flat pack, but I'd like to build a ported box for them. They're on music duty in my gym now. Ideally I'd like to fit them between the studs in my unfinished basement gym. (about 14.5"W) I don't have the skill to design my own.

 

Have you considered the version with dual passive radiators on the first page?

 

A simple ported box could be 14" wide x 12" deep x 22" high. This will give you approximately 1.55cuft gross volume. Could use a single one of these 4" ports or 1" high full width slot port that is 4" long. This will tune the box to ~50-55hz with an F3 at roughly the same range.

 

Hi, I have 5 Volt-8s and 4 Volt-6s in my 5.1.4 system and am very happy with them. I am currently using the 6” ported & slanted boxes for ceiling mounted atmos speakers. I have adjustable brackets and can aim the speakers directly at the main listening position. The aiming seems to make a noticeable difference in the sound, especially the higher frequencies. However, I don’t believe that the brackets are not going to hold up well in the long run. They are just not the best design or quality. So, I am considering making new enclosures for the volt-6s that have about the same volume as the ones in the kits and the correct angle for my room (~45-degrees) and mounting them to the ceiling with isolation brackets that will not be adjustable. These will be seen below the ceiling so I want to keep them as small as possible. Not sure that I want to go with a sealed version though. So, I have designed a tentative enclosure that would allow for using the ports that came with the kits. In this design, the port would be mounted on the bottom of the enclosure (near the rear) and aimed directly down towards the floor, while the driver would be in the 45-degree face of the enclosure and aimed at the MLP. I see ports located in various places on other speakers, so this seems okay to me. However, I still want to ask: Does this appear to be a reasonable design.

Also, if the bottom location of the ports is a problem, another idea would be to use two passive radiators in the sides of these boxes. But since the boxes are smaller than the recommended enclosure sizes for the PR versions, could weights (in lieu of the additional volume) be used for lowering the tuning of the boxes?

 

The port pointing down is not an issue if it's out of the way of the driver.

 

Thanks Mattt.