SEOS12 with Eminence 12 Pro Woofers

Discussion in 'DIY Speakers and Subwoofers' started by BillWaslo, Mar 31, 2012.

  1. Im also interested in the pro 12A it models good in a 2.0ft3 ported box
     
  2. Bill,

    Did you ever list the part numbers for this particular speaker so a kit could be started? I can't seem to find where you posted it at.
     
  3. Thank You Sir!

    How did it Sownd? :eek:
     
  4. Thanks for another SEOS project !
    I'd like to build one of them but I have a concern. Woofer is a little bit recessed but it still "sticks out" of enclosure. Can it be more recessed and how deeply to maintain phase coherency ?
    I'd like to keep it little deeper to mask all mounting screws with nice ring. Just like WLM does. It's a cheap and nice looking way make those pro woofers look nice.


    WLM Diva's mounting ring:


    http://www.spa-klangerlebnis.de/imagesa-monitor-1.jpg
     
  5. recessing another halfinch or so shouldnt be any problem.
     
  6. Thanks,


    Does it have to be specifically 0.5 inch ? I checked wavelength at XO. It's about 28cm (11 inches) so I suppose we don't have to be very precise if it comes to recessing the woofer ?
     
  7. that's 16 degrees of phase error. You wouldnt want a lot more, maybe uo to 25 degrees max.
     
  8. Bwaslo, I'm about to send out some parts for the Deltalite kit. I just wanted to check one thing first. Does the crossover use two of the same inductors......part number 255-026.


    You've got 2 listed, so I'm assuming that's correct.
     
  9. Erich, two are listed on the schematic. Look at L3 and L4.
     
  10. Anyone built this yet in a 2.0cf sealed box?
     

  11. I did. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1417294/seos12-2512-build
     
  12. Java, I really appreciate all the details you put up on your build over there,I think I have read every page,great job. I'm getting close as well to doing a SEOS12 / 360/2512 build and your thread will certainly help myself and many others along the way. I'm still debating sealed or ported, but leaning toward the sealed version close to your measurements. I too am dealing with a screen and it is fixed to a wall that won't be moving for a while :)



     

  13. Craig,
    Thanks for the kind words. On port vs. sealed, you probably read my back and forth on that. In the end, I played it safe and went sealed. Even without ports, these really kick in the bass. I do have them crossed with a sub, but the sub is pretty small. You may have seen where Coctostan supported the 2512's bass performance.



    Good luck on your build!!


    Java
     
  14. Thanks,as of today it's going to be sealed. Still have a couple weeks until I get all the parts together though! :-\ :)

     

  15. I haven't done the "math" in WinISD, but I've always assumed I could cut a hole and add a port tube later, if desired. I heard the advise to add a port upfront and "seal" it if not needed, but given the extent I went to seal the box, I questioned how well I could seal one/two holes.


    Are you using a sub with theses?
     
  16. Same thing I've been thinking, I could always go back and add ports if desired.
    Yes on the sub, I'm running one Kappa VQ 12 I built about 3 years ago.I'm useing it as spec except I use a single 0-audio 500 watt amp built in,instead of the recommended dual setup powered by the EP2500.After 3 years with 1 at 500 watts, I don't see how a house could stand 2 of these with an EP2500 :)
    http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/diy-corner-tips-techniques/45528-simple-12-infinity-kappa-vq-midq-plans.html


     
  17. If anyone has already done this Help! :) I'm modeling the 2512 in unibox and am hitting xmax at 47watts in a 1.9 ft3 cabinet sealed? I was planning on building about a 2.3 ft3 box sealed. Does this sound right or did I input something incorrect.
     
  18. I see about the same in winisd. If you have a highpass at 80hz you safe until you get well over 200 watts.
     

  19. Your model is perfectl fine. Remember that 47 watts may not sound like much, but the woofer is 96db @ 1W so SPL is high!

    Now consider a 4th order crossover at 80hz. That is, a 2nd order butterworth highpass for a composite 4th order slope. Power handling changes to 70W before xmax, which at 80hz equates to 108db. A 4th order crossover expects the woofer to be in total phase with the midwoofer - which is means that a 108db sub and 108db mid sum to 114db @ 80hz. That is ridiculously loud - and on only 70 watts!!!! And meanwhile at 200hz and above, max SPL of the woofer alone is 115db on only 70 watts.

    Is woofer's <3mm xmax slightly on the small side? Sure, but at that price and efficiency it's to be expected! Let a sub worry about the xmax part. For reference in order for most 15" subwoofers to keep up in SPL, they will need anywhere from around 300 to 500 watts!
     
  20. Agreed! I also just played around with it in winisd just to see what you guys was looking at, looks like I will soon be "deafer"
    than I already am. Can't wait to crank some P-Tree through these.Thanks for the quick replies fellas.
     
  21. Here's the cone excursion and SPL plots for 2512 deltalite 2 in a 2.27 ft3 pushing only 100 watts, very impressive.
     

    Attached Files:

  22. nice.

    so the optimal sealed enclosure for the 2512 is 2.3cf?

    i am strongly considering 3 of these for my new front stage.
     
  23. Yes, If your useing the deltalite "2" that's what I see around 2.27cf. I had to modify the parameters in winisd from the default deltalite 2512 to match the newer deltalite 2 2512 specs to arrive at this.If someone was useing the original deltalite driver 2.27cf may not be valid.



     
  24. Okay, so here is the plan. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves as they do a better job. I'll be using the Eminence 2512/DNA 360/SEOS-12. As parts start coming in I'll start posting more pics of the build. Thanks to Bill for his up front work on the x-over to make this a possibility. As of now I plan on using 2 braces but the bottom brace will probably be about an inch lower than shown so I can set the crossovers on the braces and still clear the woofers. I've also went back and forth on what material to use for damping. I've read that regular fiberglass insulation works good in sealed boxes but I've used the below with good results in the past http://www.amazon.com/Roxul-Acoustical-Batts-Mineral-2-inch/dp/B006FX8ASA
    Any thoughts or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
     

    Attached Files:

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