The Celestion-Truvox-0820 looks like a direct upgrade to the HT-8 drivers (barring crossover changes that may be needed) and they're coming in at the same price (for now) as the old Celestion TF0818-8. 2-3db more sensitivity, 2db more power handling, 5mm xmax vs 3.25mm xmax. All pure upgrades, I checked the sensitivity based on the graph, not the number listed.
I just pulled the trigger on some HT-8's. Would there be any benefit to applying sound deadener to the inside panels? Something like this: I saw some pics of someone else doing it but was wondering if there would be any advantages to it in the HT-8. I've used it extensively in my cars and it helped tremendously to dampen vibrations and make my stock Bose system sound better.
No harm in applying that material to the cabinet walls of the HT-8, but the difference in panel resonance won't be nearly as noticeable compared to sheet metal in a vehicle.
What do you think about also sticking the deadening mat on the outside of the plastic port? Wrapping a small piece around the outside of the tube. And/or applying small pieces to the back of the waveguide? I don't want to negatively affect the speaker, just possibly improve its resonances. I already have the deadener and want to use it as my cars are done with it.
If you already have leftovers laying around then I would certainly use it. There is no harm to be had applying it to any of those surfaces and I am sure it will help a little.
I am in the process of attaching the crossovers to the box. Is this the correct way to use the stand offs? It doesn't seem like there is a lot of thread to hold it in.
Yes when the screw is driven in it will spread the tabs on the standoff and let more threads through.
Are there any negative affects to placing the HT-8 upside down, with the waveguide on the bottom? This would be for the LR to get the compression drivers to be more in line with the center, which would be waveguide up. Or is it best to have them all oriented the same way and just angle them up/down?
My HT-8's went together easily, no issues, took about 3 days total. I've had them running for a few days now and initial impressions are great. Their output and clarity are impressive, for their size. I need some more time listening before really reviewing them. They replaced my LCR consisting of some JBL 280F towers and a B&W HTM71 S2 center. They sound much better than these speakers they replaced and I gained a lot of floor space. In my home theatre, bass integration and dialogue clarity are my top priorities and having this speaker as a center has greatly improved dialogue. I was also able to wall mount them, so SBIR has shifted/lessened and mid bass is more full now. They are as loud as the JBL's and louder than the B&W they replaced, and more detailed as well. Here are some pics of the build. I'll have to get some more pics of them mounted on my wall.
I was of FB market looking for two more 18" subs to go with my two SI HT-18v3's. They are in the 4cuft flatpacks, mdf. I actually found someone selling a pair of SI HT-18v2's in some already built 4cuft birch flat packs. He also had some unfinished flat packs. With my success at my other HT-8's I decided to buy them. He had three HTM12'sv1, four HT-8's and 4 volt 6's. I was able to get all these speakers and subs for $800, I just need to complete all the HTM/HT/Volt speakers. I am most likely going to sell some of them to recoup some of the money. Or maybe just keep them. I know I am going to have some questions while building these. First, what do you think of replacing the HT-8's I currently have as LCR's to the HTM-12v1's? Just curious as to your opinion. The HT-8's would be repurposed to surrounds. It seems like the HTM-12v1 is a higher quality speaker and plays louder, deeper and wider. Besides size would there be any negative affects to doing this, sound quality wise? I've seen discrepancies to the port length on the HTM-12v1 as well. I've seen 3", 3.25" and 4.25". Is this personal preference as to what I want the tuning/bass level to be or is one better than the other for this speaker? I like crossing over at 80Hz or higher in my home theatre. Has anyone gone smaller than 3" to get a bigger bump?
Yes the HTM-12 v1's should be an overall upgrade over the HT-8's. The cabinet tuning of the original HTM-12 came in lower then expected that why there were a few different lengths posted. 3" is the correct length on those to get the desired tuning of 45Hz. You can possibly shorten that to 2-2.5" which should move tuning up toward 50-55Hz and that will give a little more output around 80Hz and above. I would not go much shorter then that as you will end up with a bass peak around 120Hz and shorter ports result in more midrange leakage.