Build plans for Classix

Discussion in 'DIY Speakers and Subwoofers' started by Lordpyro, Sep 9, 2014.

  1. Hi!

    I am a super newbie at DIY, and I purchased the Classix speaker kit, and it didn't come with build plans. I know it's an easy one but since I never built anything like it before, I was wondering if anybody had a build plan? Or alternatively, if there are any websites that have plans on how to build a speaker kit for beginners?

    Thanks
    Anthony
     
  2. I'm unaware of any complete step-by-step instructions, but you can work it out, I'm sure. I'll share some thoughts below, and maybe that'll answer most of your questions - or at least get you thinking. Did you see the cut list and model in the image on the product page?

    http://www.diysoundgroup.com/catalog/product/gallery/id/365/image/1352/
    [​IMG]


    Here's what I would do.


    1. Go to the big box hardware store and pick out a sheet of 3/4" MDF or nice void-free plywood if you prefer. Before you buy it, have the guy with panel saw cut a couple strips off one end. The strips will be 15" by 48" (plywood) or 49" (MDF). Each strip should be almost enough for one cabinet, and much easier to manage compared to a full sheet. Have three (or four) cut so there's extra, especially if the corners of the sheet are buggered.


    2. At home, carefully cut the pieces according to the list in that image (see note about baffle size in next step before you actually cut anything!). Measure twice, cut once. A table saw would be my choice, but a circular saw and a fence would do as well. A high tooth count blade (like 60-80 teeth on a 10" blade) will ensure a nice even cut with no tear-out and a sharp edge. Notice that all of the pieces will need cutting - maybe an inch or three, or maybe not - don't trust the measurement of the guy at the panel saw.


    3. Lay them out with the large back panel flat on a table and dry-fit the box together. If you have the baffle on hand (which would be my recommendation - wait until you have it), lay it on top and see how it all fits. Chances are good that Erich has had the baffle cut about 1/8" too large, on purpose. This gives you some room for slop. If your box doesn't come together perfectly square, you would be left with an uneven overhang of the baffle which will need trimming. If he made the baffle exactly the given dimensions, it may come up short if your box is out of square. I'm not certain if all the baffles have been specced this way. Assuming that your baffle doesn't line up with your finished box perfectly on all four edges, you'll want a router to trim it flush, using a flush-trim bit.


    4. After wiping the edges of saw dust, glue and clamp lightly. The more clamps you have, the easier this will be. 8 is not too many for one box, have plenty on hand to expedite the process. I like to do a few pieces at a go to help keep everything square. Some folks swear by brad nails at this step, but I prefer glue only. Any common wood glue will do fine. Make sure the bracing goes in - hopefully nice and snug - before the baffle goes on. I've noticed in this sheet that Boxozaxu hasn't included any brace running top to bottom, which is fine - but think carefully about your sequence and clamping to keep the top and bottom pieces where you want them; you might want to add a brace (maybe temporary) of 12.5 inches to jamb between the top and bottom while gluing up - just think it through. Follow the instructions on the glue for clamp time, especially if you're about to pick it up and clamp in a different direction.


    5. If you haven't already, assemble the crossover. That's a complicated topic to describe in a single paragraph, so I won't try. Let us know if you need help with this part, but it's actually pretty easy once you see how it works.


    6. At this point, the six sides are all together and its tempting to screw on the drivers, but of course you don't have any way to wire it up without installing terminals. Depending on what type you have, you may want to install them before or after finishing (painting, staining, veneering, etc.) Of course, you could string the wires through the port and cheat the whole process, but don't do that. ;)


    7. Of course, finishing is its own ball of wax, but that's the end of it.


    Fred
     

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