Celestion 15" buyout and SEOS12/DNA360

Discussion in 'DIY Speakers and Subwoofers' started by BillWaslo, May 9, 2013.

  1. Top View. Tweeter network on top, woofer on bottom.

    Attached Files:

  2. Back side View.

    Attached Files:

  3. Thanks Maxphan....much better!
  4. I got most of my crossover parts, but the 0.05MH 18 AWG air core inductor (255-200) is on backorder for quite a while. Can I substitute this wire air core inductor with a foil air core inductor of same specs?

    Here's a foil 0.05mH, also by Jantzen

    Slightly different resistance, not sure about other characteristics of wire vs. foil inductors. Is this ok to do? I'm already swapping one of the 3 ohm resistors for two 6 ohm parallel.
  5. Your question is my question Andy, for all the same reasons. Would anybody care to comment on the Jantzen vs the ERSE inductor? I can afford the extra 6 cents the ERSE costs.

    ERSE 18 AWG

    Here is the Jantzen Foil 16 AWG as Andy referenced:

    Here is the original Jantzen 18 AWG inductor called for in this SEOS XO project:


    I am also considering ordering my XO parts from another distributor, as I prefer a single source supplier. My first preference is to use PE because they have a relationship with the SEOS group, and I would like to give them my business.

    What I think I am going to do is get all the parts I can from PE, and then get the PE back orders from a second source. I want to lock in my Celestion speakers ASAP.
  6. I think any of those coils would be fine, the differences in resistance (a few hundredths' of an ohm) are negligible for the intended application.
  7. As usual MTG, you're the best! Thanks for monitoring this thread and providing some guidance.

    Right after I finish this post I am ordering all the parts from PE that are in stock. I am going to sub the ERSE inductor in place of the Jantzen. All parts will come from PE.

    For the couple of back ordered capacitors, I am going to get a second source. I realize I can wire a couple of those in parallel, but soldering is not my skill, and the less of it I have to do, the better.

    THEN I'll get to my order on the DIY, email Eric to swap out for the RMA-360, and get my SEOS kit with ROUNDOVERS (thanks MaxPhan).

    Does that sound like a plan?
  8. Measure twice, cut once.

    In my case, read twenty times, try to understand it once.

    I need a flat pack for this project, since I don't have the right power tools. I initially misunderstood what a baffle was, but now I get it, it's the front "cover," and has nothing to do with a "port."

    Unless I'm mistaken, a 15" speaker is not going to fit in the 14" wide 2.0 flat pack. Like a couple other posters have asked, is there a 2.5 flat pack which will fit with the SEVENTEEN INCH baffle which is included in the Celestion kit?

    Sadly, I think I know the answer. :(

    Edited: You know, I didn't get this far in my thinking just to give up now! I have gotten to "know" a couple of you guys on this board who have given some good advice, for which I thank you all. I am a real believer in what Eric is doing with this SEOS project, and I appreciate the incredible effort he's putting in.

    I think I'm going to go ahead and order the Celestion woofs and crossover parts, and then when the 2.5 flat pack kit comes out, I'm in business!

    FYI, PE has put a note on the order I have pending, and the Celestion woofer price is only good until 06/30/13.
  9. One down, one to go. I hope I did that right...
  10. Yeah that looks correct.
  11. about to solder the parts of the crossover together....this look ok?

    Attached Files:

  12. Looks correct to me, test before soldering.
  13. thanks Maxphan...good call
  14. What does everybody use to connect the woofers to the crossover? Solder on some speaker wire or crimp on terminals?
  15. As much as I experiment, nothing is forever. So I use crimp-on's.
  16. This may not be very useful to a lot of people, but I think it will get someone started to at least see how I've laid this out. If anyone sees any problems coming, please don't hesitate to speak up. This is my first build since cub scouts (pinewood derby anyone?). I don't have a lot of sophisticated tools or a truck to carry full sheets of MDF, so I've tried to simplify this process. I have 4 30" clamps, a table saw, a circular saw and assorted hand tools, but no router or anything fancy like a band saw or even a jig saw.

    I started with thinking through what the process will be like. I read a few threads around here and there, and decided that I would try to assemble the top, bottom, and sides, with the braces to help hold them square. Then I would come back and secure the baffle and back. Using butt joints only, here's a basic (not to scale and without braces) image of the way the top, bottom, and sides should fit together.

    Based on those joints and the description of the cabinet dimensions (17.25 wide, 26 tall, and 16 deep) I figured the dimensions of each piece. That lead me to this list:
    [SIZE=small]Baffle/Back 17.25 x 26 x .75
    Top/Bottom 17.25 x 14.5 x .75
    Sides (x2) 14.5 x 24.5 x .75[/SIZE]

    I'm building three, and of course the baffles come from Erich, so I need three backs, 6 sides, and 6 top/bottom pieces. I laid them out in sketchup to make them fit together in a cut sheet. I'm sure this is not the most efficient use of materials, but it will work for me very well. I've built in a little slack to account for the kerf. Did you know that MDF is sold in sheets 49 inches wide by 97 inches long? I had no idea.

    Here's the key for the labels in the cut sheets:
    Backs - A, B, C
    Sides - D, E, F, H, I, J
    Top/Bottom - K, L, M, N, O, P



    The braces are not labelled, but there are enough for two horizontal and one vertical in each cabinet. I'm not sure about the profile of the braces, but I think what I've drawn here will work. I wasn't sure how deep they would need to be - the way I've got them planned, they will all lay against the back and reach toward the baffle 9 inches - should they be deeper? I'm not sure how I'll make the cuts, but I'm not concerned about winning any beauty contests. If there is a better way to design the braces, I'd love to hear some tips.

    You'll notice that I've marked several cuts just to break down the sheet into small enough sizes to fit in my VW. I'll have the guy at Lowe's do that. There's enough excess in the pieces that a half inch or more won't be a problem.
  17. Get at least two 90 degree corner clamps, four if you can spring for it.
    The baffle I received was 17-1/2 x 26-1/8 If you do not have a router (to flush trim), you will need to make a box the exact size of the baffle you receive.
  18. My 3 woofer arrived. They were packed fairly well in a large box with a lot of stuffing. I'm looking forward to seeing whats possible with these woofers.
  19. Thanks, Fred!

    You might need to buy a jig saw and some sort of sander...

    Do you have drivers and a baffle yet to check clearances?

  20. Keep posting Fred, I am almost on the same page as you, and your pics and drawings are helpful. In my case, I have speakers and XO's, and I just ordered the baffle kit.

    Now I need a flat pack. If I can't get one, I have to go to Plan B, which I haven't figured out yet.
  21. +1 on the flat pack...but now I'm wondering about the 15" SEOS waveguide... :p
  22. The baffle I received is the same height as what I cut (within say, 1/64 or 1/32), but it is about 1/4" wider than what I cut. I don't own a router, but I'm sure I can find one to borrow.

    I've gotten sidetracked (by having to work for a living) but I'll be back posting some more pictures and stuff soon - hopefully Wednesday.
  23. Excellent, sounds like you can fix that with some sanding and putty.
    Routers are really cool (albeit they are a bit dangerous) they expound the wood working potential in your shop by leaps.
  24. I think you're probably right, but I suspect I will find a router to round over some other edges on the cabs, so I'll trim this too.

    The other three edges of these two pieces are aligned perfectly for this picture. On the left is the back I cut, on the right is the CNC baffle
  25. I finally have all the components I need to start building 3 of these for my LCR. Below is a piece of software that I've found to be very helpful in laying out how to cut parts for cabinets from mdf/ply:


    Hope it helps others

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