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Discussion in 'Home Theater Speaker Kit Information' started by tuxedocivic, Jan 7, 2015.
I changed my mind....another Pure 10 it is. ;D
Holy Cow, somebody Smited me !
Noone has built a pair of the awesome Pures in the last week?
I find that hard to believe.
1099 fans are very serious people
Attaboy for you.
So I am in the middle of my build. Bought these kits in December, got them in January, and just started last week. Erich has been very helpful with everything so far but I don't want to keep bothering him so thought I'd ask here.
Disclaimer : I have never done this before, never built a crossover, or anything rather besides a computer and sandwich. My terminology below will sound elementary to the subject
First, should I literally glue the crossover components onto a piece of MDF board the way that the pictures have them spaced out? And should all of the wires be soldered on the top side of the board where the components are or should I be doing this on the reverse side?
Second, I have like 20 screws that came with the kit. I know where 12 of them go (4 for the waveguide, 8 for woofer), but I have no idea what the others are for.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
2. Did you buy a terminal cup? He might have added a few for that. There should be two threaded bolts and two nuts to attach the compression driver to the horn. That would be four parts. Could you mean that?
1. The layout and how you wire things is not fundamental to the sound quality. You could solder point to point or use wires to extend the distance. Doesn't matter. Neither does glueing the parts to MDF. It's only common to do that so the parts don't move around (which they should not or you could short the speaker). Some people use peg board, some MDF. What ever. The most important part is making sure all the connections have the same "pathway" as the diagram. Does that make sense? Hope that helps. If not, ask more, it's not a problem. You're far from the first to struggle with it
Thank you for your help. I am now at a point where I must get my theater room done but have it built in a way that pleases everyone.
With that said, I have to use in-wall speakers. I do not get a say in that. With everything going on and what I am allowed to do, I am only able to make the boxes 6" or so deep, which is obviously rather small. Compensation will be via height of course to obtain that same volume. What would I need to modify to get this thing to sound right? I am assuming something with the ports would need to be altered. I was hoping to use the pre-built baffle though
Please let me know. Thanks!
I'd go sealed. Then the box size can be the size of the baffle and only 6" deep. But you'll need to be crossing to subs at 80hzor higher. You'd have to plug the port holes somehow.
Would that work for you?
Hello kind sir,
I am not sure what you mean by going sealed unless you mean creating a full box for the speakers. I will be using a Mini Marty Sub as recommended over at the avsforums, that should hopefully cover my low frequencies. By plugging the holes do you literally mean sealing them so that they are non existent?
I purchased the flat packs with the speakers. Do you think I'd be able to just shave it down to 6" and be ok or do you recommend something entirely different than what I am picturing?
I'm talking about the speaker, not the sub. If the box becomes very small, the port will get messed up, but if the speaker is sealed up then it'll be fine. It just won't go as low as it would ported. It doesn't really have to go as low because it'll be in a baffle wall, so you'll get more bass from that.
If the components will fit in a 6" deep box (I'm pretty sure they will) then ya, just cut it down to the size you need and somehow block the port holes. Fill them in with wood and filler, or something. That would probably be a whole lot easier than making the box taller to compensate for the volume difference.
Ok fantastic. So my game plan is then:
1. Purchase 4 more speakers
2. Create boxes that are the exact same dimensions except only 6" deep without ports (or sealed port holes).
3. Make sure my subwoofer crossover covers the missing frequencies.
I wonder if Mr. Erich is able to customize the flat packs at all. Guess I will shoot him an email.
I was originally going to go for 3Fusion 10s + 4 volt 10s but I think it would be best now to go all around with 7 fusion 10s. Good idea right?
That all sounds good.
For your surrounds, what ever works for you. You could always build the 3 Pures and see how they work for you. If you like them, buy more for surrounds. The Pure costs more than the Volt (I think?) so that needs to be considered, if it matters to you.
Erich was not so sure that 6" of depth was adequate for the speaker system and didn't seem to think it would be a good idea without compensating with an increase in height. He said I should speak to the designer of the speaker, which I can only guess is you since you are the OP and have been giving great advice.
If you think that 6" depth is adequate provided I have a good subwoofer to handle the lows, then I will proceed with purchasing 4 more fusion 10s (it is within my budget).
Yup that's me.
Erich probably wasn't thinking about sealed. If you kept them ported, it would be to small and the port would screw things up. Being sealed, it'll be ok. You'll just lose some of the bass around 100hz, but like I said, in a baffle wall you'll gain a bunch back. So it's really an ok situation, but unique to what you're doing.
You will want to make sure you have a good wad of damping material behind the woofer to kill reflections off the back of the enclosure, only 6" away.
So here's what I am thinking. I am planning to build the cross overs on some MDF board (1/4 inch). I can size this up to be the length of the port holes and put the cross over there. Then on the reverse side I can use wood filler. I would attach the MDF board via wood glue.
Would that be a good way to seal up the ports? I plan to stuff the speaker with R-19 insulation.
So I am going to home depot to get some 3/4" MDF. Here is what I think I Need:
(1) 12.5"x20" back panel
(2) 5"x20" side panels
(4) 5"x12.5" top panel, bottom panel ,and bracing
Going to put 1/4" MDF on one side of the ports, fill with wood filler, then 1/4" MDF on the other side.
That should get me a depth of about 6.5 ish I believe with a bit more near the ports.
Is it necessary to have the crossover on two boards as shown in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6FezH9Flsc
I kind of just connected all of the wires together on one 5"x7" board tightly together. It seemed to operate when I connected it with the receiver and speaker components.
Sorry for all of the questions. Once I get one down, I should be good to go for the other 6.
That seems reasonable to me. Either your side panels or top panels need to account for the material thickness though. Seems that hasn't been considered.
No need for two XO boards. People just do that for convenience. No biggie.
Good Point. See corrections below
(1) 12.5"x20" back panel
(2) 5.5"x20" side panels
(4) 5.5"x11" top panel, bottom panel ,and bracing
Yup, you're in business 8)
Here is another question (hopefully the last one).
Is bracing really necessary on a speaker cabinet this small? I just feel like that is some extra volume I am losing by having that much material in there.
If it is necessary, Should I keep the general outline of the original flatpacks or can I get away with it being smaller?
EDIT: Wondering if there is a better way to seal these ports. Wood filler doesn't seem to be dense enough. I wonder if I can just use the included ports, cut them, and then find matching rubber stopper-like piece and plug it.
Shoot sorry I missed this. I know you got a reply on AVS about bracing front to back. Hope your good to go
It is me again.
After a long hiatus because of school, I am back at it. I recut all of my MDF because Home depot sucks.
It turns out, I am not so good myself either. Here are the dimensions of my speakers (still need to be glued)
12.5 x 8 x 19 13/16
I do not know what happened there but I ended up with a 3/16 deficit. My guess is that I would have to cut the baffle 3/16 so it fits fine but I am not sure if that is safe.
I cut bracing pieces as well that I need to attach (1.5 x 0.75).
Last set of questions before I can be done with this:
1. Do I still need to seal these with the added depth?
2. Can I cut the baffle 3/16 or should I just leave it (have it sticking from the top a bit)
Trying to decide on either the Fusion 10's or the Alchemy 8 Towers. Currently I have 2 HST18's 2 Audiopipe15's 4 Infinity1262's I am good with the low end got it covered as they say. My LCR are Klipsch RP160M and RP250C for the center. I am wanting to upgrade only since regardless of anything I am only to get so much out of 2 5.25 ( center ) and 1 6.5 for each L and R no matter how much power I give it. I am very much aware in the ideal situation LCR should all be the same timber matched etc. Unless I find a pot of gold I can only do so much. I like the idea of the 10's larger driver better soundfield the Alchemy Towers seems to be another great speaker more power handling with 2 8's vs 1 10. My biggest problem that I am puzzled about I want to use my current center it may not be the best but I do like the way it sounds and I know it is not the right way to do this but in your opinion how would either the 8 or the 10's sound with the Klipsch RP250C? I am leaning towards the Pures they will blend in with current set up and I was going to use the Klipsch RP160M as Front Presence speaker located approx. 4ft. above the Pures if I get them. It is not ideal set up I get it but I can only do so much so any thoughts on this? Thanks.
How big is your room? The regular Fusion-8 will be a big step up from the Klipsch you have now.