HTM Speaker Kits

Discussion in 'Home Theater Speaker Kit Information' started by Matt Grant, Sep 30, 2016.

  1. #426 Kellen35, Apr 11, 2022
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2022
    Any news on htm-12 coming back in stock? Is it a crossover part that is missing?

    If so, any chance of getting a kit without the needed crossover part and me substituting it with something from PartExpress?

    I would also be open to running them on active crossovers as I have 8 channels of dsp and amplification equipment available. Long term I would rather use the passive crossover network but until everything comes back in stock this seems like a great option.

    I’m looking to do an LCR setup.
    MDuyck1292 likes this.
  2. Quick question...

    I've built a pair of HT-8s for Atmos heights. I installed terminal cups in two locations; one for if/when the speaker is ceiling or wall-mounted and a second for when the speaker is sitting on top of my fronts in an up-firing configuration.

    My question is if there are any issues with connecting both input terminals to the crossover simultaneously (only one would be in use at any given time).

    I'm assuming this is fine, but wanted to double-check.


  3. It's perfectly fine to install two separate input terminals like that.
  4. Thanks Matt. Always appreciate how responsive you are to questions :).
  5. I put two sets of inputs on all my larger enclosures.
    One is a SpeakOn, the other is a normal binding post cup.
    The SpeakOn looks so small next to the binding post cup!

  6. Hi Matt - I was able to snag a trio of HTM-12s recently for my LCR. This was from the batch that was missing one inductor due to supply chain issues and they were sold with the caveat that this needed to be sourced separately. I'm referring to the "L3" 2.5mH iron core inductor which is missing. These are still difficult to come by, but it seems that air core 2.5mH 18AWG coils with similar 300 watt RMS rating are available for not much more. (See LW182-5 at Parts Express - it won't seem to allow me to post a link here).

    I realize the DCR varies slightly, but is there any reason why I should not just sub an air core for the missing coil? Also, would it be necessary to swap out both L3 and L4 for air core vs. the iron cores to remain consistent or is it ok to mix without concern?

  7. Hi Andy you could use that air core if you really wanted to get those speakers going. It will reduce the output from the woofer by about 0.5dB in the upper bass/low midrange. You do not need to replace the other inductor with an air core. Just make sure when installing the air core that it sits oriented the same way as the I-core would have sat on the board.

    I should note that Erich has found a new source for I-core inductors and should be getting many of the popular values soon in which case you may be able to purchase one off him.
  8. The Hyperlite is a lot different than the Deltalite and would not work. Send me an email and I can get you a replacement. If you already have sent me an email but didn't get a reply, check your spam folder.
    Vital likes this.
  9. Good afternoon Erich. Not sure what's going on with the emails but I have been sending them since May. I have sent them via your contact form on DIYSG and direct emails to I don't know if they are coming through to you or if you just missed them but I can't seem to get in touch with you lol. Nothing in any of my junk folders either.
  10. It looks like the Item #266-556 - ERSE 2.5mH 18 AWG Laminated Iron Core Inductor is still out of stock on parts express.

    Would the Dayton 2.5mH 18awg (Part #257-556) be a direct replacement for HTM12v2?
  11. Yes that one works as a substitute.
  12. Fantastic. Thanks for the quick reply
  13. Hey Matt, I am in the process of assembling 9 HTM/HT 12s. Would it be okay to line them with Owen Corning R15 thermal & sound mineral wool? It comes in 3 inch thick sheets.
  14. It should be ok assuming you leave plenty of room around the ports.
  15. I believe I've read a thread from Matt stating he uses the bottom of the waveguide as the acoustic center. That leads me to think it makes no difference if they are upside down as long as the bottom of the wave guide is pointed at the MLP.

    What did you end up going with? Sound good?
  16. I recently reran my calibration on my AVR and it set the crossover for the HT-8 series at 180 Hz. Seems high! After reviewing the HT-8 response ratings that seems accurate if it's expecting a flat response since they drop 10db from 180 to 80Hz

    Listening at 180 HZ crossover sounds fuller with my sub but cleaner at 80 Hz, which is what I used to run. It's a cheap sub. At 180 I can also localize the bass and it's unsettling.

    Would it make sense to pair the HT-8 with two better subs placed underneath that can reach up to 180-200Hz? Is this an imaginary problem?
  17. That's seems quite high. I would double check everything and rerun your calibration.
  18. Any idea when more will drop (HT-8, HT-10, HT-12)?
  19. Waiting on ports for the HT-8 and HT-88. Waiting on front baffles for the HT-12. HT-10 will probably be in stock next week.
    Skoonky and MDuyck1292 like this.
  20. Erich, did I understand correctly from an earlier post you made that you had 21" cabinets on-hand that never made the DIYSG web page? If so, do you have specs of the box and a price? Thanks.

  21. Erich, any idea on when there will be more HTM-12?
  22. @Erich H / @Matt Grant -
    I finally was able to put together my pair of htm 8s. This is my first time assembling crossovers. I noticed one of the speaker's highs sounded muffled or rolled off. There is sound coming from the CD but not the higher crisp details.

    I switched CD from each just to make sure it wasn't defective. It turns out, it sounded the same so I suspect it is the crossover? I've attached pictures of the crossover. I made sure all the copper are exposed, enough solder for each lead. Could it be a bad crossover part? Is there something else I need to be looking for?

    Thank you,
    1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg 6.jpg
  23. I would double check these solder joints. The 3.0uF and the 8.2uF capacitors are the only two inline components for the CD, if a solder joint on either is bad it will prevent a good signal from reaching the compression driver and those two solder joints are on one leg or each.
    2 solder joints.jpg
  24. That was it! I appreciate the quick response @Matt Grant
    marc seals likes this.

Share This Page