HTM Speaker Kits

Discussion in 'Home Theater Speaker Kit Information' started by Matt Grant, Sep 30, 2016.

  1. #201 SDKTheater, Jan 31, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2020
    Hey @Matt Grant,

    I purchased HT-12s for my LCR speakers and HT-8s for my surrounds. I am currently drawing up the design for the theater and figuring out the placement and angles for the speakers. Do you know the vertical and horizontal dispersion angles for both speakers (SEOS Waveguides)? I want to make sure to maximize the off-axis response as there are 8 seats in the theater. Thank you!
  2. Dispersion of the SEOS designs is approximately 90 degrees horizontal (+-45 degrees). IIRC vertical is around 30 degrees (+-15) on the HTM-12 and probably closer to 40 degrees (+-20) on the HT-8.
  3. I am going to update my Atmos 5.2.4 speaker setup for my new home and am considering these for my left and right surround speakers along with
    1099's for L C R and
    Volt 10's for Atmos height front and backs.

    How well do you think HT-10 would match up in this setup?

  4. Thanks Matt! I will take this into account and get the angle as small as possible both horizontal and vertical.

    One other question, attached is an early design of my theater. I am not an audiophile, but I do enjoy good sound. I also do not listen at really high levels. Do you think 4 VBSS would suffice? All I have experienced in my own home media room to this point is a 10" down firing sub, so the 18s would be a huge change in my mind. I am also working to see if I could incorporate the HT-12s into the front corner sub boxes (in their own enclosure) to be able to get the sound stage widened.

    Attached Files:

  5. Hey @Matt Grant

    Are the HTM models better suited for baffle wall installs vs the HT series due to the fact that they have less Baffle Step Compensation? My LCR will be either the HTM-12 or HT-12. My room is 17' 6" wide by 19' 2" long to baffle wall with roughly 16-20" behind the baffle wall and roughly 9' ceilings. It will be a single row 4 seats and MLP will be 13' away from the center speaker. I will be installing 4 large diy UM18-22 ported subs either in each corner or mid-way on the 4 walls.

    Do you have any tips for baffle wall installation? I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on these questions:

    Is it better to do a wall to wall and floor to ceiling full baffle wall with a layer configuration of 5/8" drywall-3/4" MDF-5/8" drywall with green glue in between each layer and 1-2" of acoustical foam flush with the baffle of the LCR? The wall will be angled in to house the L and R channel so they are toed in. I was going to try for a 22.5° toe in angle unless you think it should be more or less. The problem with a baffle wall is I won't be able to play with different toe in angles.

    Or do you think I'm better off having openings near the floor and ceiling corners to allow the space behind the baffle wall to act as a bass trap if I fill it with fiberglass batts from floor to ceiling? I was planning on sitting at 0.68 distance back from the baffle wall to eliminate sitting at a null and if I add openings to the baffle wall I would have to take into account the space behind the baffle wall correct?

    Should the cutouts for the speakers have a full box so to speak behind/surrounding each speaker? If so, should that box be made of the same 3 layers as the baffle wall or is 3/4" MDF or plywood sufficient? Or should it be left open? The main wall behind the baffle wall will be soundproofed.

    If a complete wall to wall and floor to ceiling baffle wall is the way to go, should I leave the cavity behind it open or still fill it with fiberglass even though it won't be used as a bass trap? I'm planning on installing batts in the stud openings of the baffle wall regardless.

    I am planning to use 8 HTM-8's or HT-8's for my 4 surrounds and 4 atmos speakers. Would they benefit from doing extra wide columns (3' or 4') angled to the MLP and doing the same drywall-MDF-drywall-acoustical foam on them to act as floor to ceiling mini baffle wall covered in AT fabric to hide them?

    Same question for the ceiling speakers if I were to build 3' or 4' squares angled to the MLP. Or is doing this a waste of time and materials?

    Sorry for all the questions, I really appreciate all the knowledge and time that you share with us here and on the AVSforum! Thanks for designing speakers for the DIY community!

  6. #206 Matt Grant, Feb 13, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2020
    The HT-10's should match up well with the 1099's and Volts, most of these designs sound more alike then different.

    I think four VBSS would be a huge jump over the single 10", I doubt you will be disappointed especially with all four subs corner loaded.
    Rew452 and ICF2018 like this.
  7. Hi Aaron,

    There is little difference between the BSC on the HT-6/HTM-6 and HT-8/HTM-8. The HT-10 and HT-12 have a little bit more BSC built in then the HTM versions but can still be installed in a baffle wall without much issue. That said the HTM-10/12 would be slightly more suited for that type of installation.

    A semi or partial baffle wall will provide the benefits to the LCR such as elimination of the boundary interference response and reinforcement of the low end, you would want it to extend at least 2-3' beyond the edges of the speakers. Filling the cavity behind with fiberglass to act as a bass trap would make good use of the space. If not doing a full wall you could probably get away with just a double layer of 3/4 MDF and 5/8" drywall with green glue.

    I'd make the boxes that hold the LCR on the baffle wall the same way. You can make them slightly oversized leaving 1-2" around the speaker, this gives you a little bit of leeway for extra play with toe angle. The gap can then be filled with acoustic foam.

    Seating should be based off the solid wall in which the bass will be contained so if building a full solid baffle wall it should be based off the baffle wall, if doing a partial baffle wall it should be based off the wall behind the baffle wall. You shouldn't need to fill the cavity behind the baffle wall with fiberglass if making it a full/complete wall.

    You don't need extra wide columns for the surrounds, make them whatever size you think looks good and fit the speaker. They only need to be 3/4" MDF construction. Again you can leave a small gap around the speaker to allow a little bit of toe ability if needed. The columns can also be turned into bass traps or absorbers by leaving the top or bottom portion of the column open and filling with fiberglass.

    I wouldn't bother trying to make baffles for the ceiling speakers though toeing them towards the MLP may be a good idea if it would be beyond about 20 degrees off the vertical axis of the speaker.
    ICF2018 likes this.
  8. HTM-12 update.

    The HTM-12 is going to be getting some changes. The new model wll be switching to a Celestion compression driver. It will also be getting a new custom designed woofer, it's based off the deltalite but has a copper shorting ring in the motor, longer voice coil, new cone, dustcap, spider and surround, and perhaps most important to some of you no more silver ring around the outside.

    The new woofer was actually intended for use in a new Fusion line but since those woofers were already ordered, the stock of the 2512's was running low and the HTM-12 was going to need changes to move away from the DNA-325 anyway it was decided to put the new woofers to use in the HTM-12 as the new Fusion designs may have been a long while out. The new Hyperlite-12 woofer does loose a little sensitivity (now 95dB) but gains about 10Hz of bass extension in the same enclosure and gives more midbass kick then the original Deltalite.

    With a new compression driver and woofer the crossover has also been redesigned though it retains much of the same voicing as the original. The main change being that the crossover point has been lowered to 1250hz to give better directivity matching between the woofer and waveguide and some minor response adjustments that I feel give a cleaner presentation in the midrange and treble.

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