Volt Coaxial Speaker Kits

Discussion in 'Home Theater Speaker Kit Information' started by Matt Grant, Dec 28, 2014.

  1. For the Volt-8/10 you don't want the magnet directly above the one air core that lays flat but the magnets will have minimal impact on the other inductors because they should be oriented at a right angle from the magnets.

    But I also did some tests with this and any more then an inch or so away and I could not measure any change in inductance.
     
  2. Directly above means the circular magnet on the driver is parallel to the circular open core inductor with their loci in alignment and very close?

    This is what I ended up doing:
    DSC03182_sm.jpg
    (the driver goes in the missing panel in case that wasn't obvious)

    Also, are the small screws that come with the kit for mounting the crossover intentionally brass so there's no ferrous metal by the inductors? I found they were too short to be very useful with hardly any threads sticking out of the plastic spacer. I bought 3/4" #6 brass wood screws and used them instead. They're a tad snug in the plastic spacer, but I had more threads to bite into the Baltic Birch.
     
  3. It looks like it should be fine like that, the woofer magnet appears like it will be at least a couple inches away which shouldn't cause any issues.

    The screws are not brass, they just have a finish that looks like it. I bought a bunch a different screws to try with the standoffs, #4 was the size that fits best inside of them. Unfortunately the heads of all #4 screws are #1 Philips and I found that 3/4" was too long for hard materials like Baltic birch and it would be hard to keep enough pressure to tighten them down all the way without causing the bit cam out of the head. The #4 x 5/8" screws are long enough you just have to be carful when you begin to drive them into the wood or MDF if not enough pressure is applied you will grind away/strip the material it need to bite into.
     
  4. #254 Graham N, Apr 19, 2019
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2019
    Hi Matt,
    I have ordered four Volt 10’s with the standard baffle for sealed enclosures. It looks the baffle has flat sides, not rounded off. If so could I build my enclosure around the baffle rather than mounting the baffle on the front of the box? This means I could have more volume for the same cabinet depth.

    I will be mounting them in pillars so they won’t be seen. I would like to keep the overall depth at about 9” so the extra 1.5” in height and depth will give me closer to 1 cubic foot

    Would there actually be much difference in the bass if I did this?

    Thank you

    Graham

    Edit : - I have decided to just go for 14x14x9.5” o/d prior to fixing the front baffle
     
  5. I have a couple questions regarding the volt-8, v2

    1. Does anyone have picture of the back of the Board? How do i terminate the end? Just cut off the extra wire? soldier them to what?

    2. Anyone know if there is a video on building the crossover step by step?
     
  6. Do I need to put a rubber inbetween the compression driver and the speaker when screwing it in so that it's airtight? Or, some sort of silicone? or, just screw in as tight as possible is fine?
     
  7. #257 Robot, Apr 20, 2019
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2019
    I have another question:

    In Erich's instructions he says, 'The crossover components are non directional... except the inductors'

    The inductors i received doesn't indicate which direction is which... the round ones especially.. so, which wire goes where? The PCB board does not show where both the 0.5mH inductors' wires goes to which hole??
     
  8. Just screw the compression driver in. No gasketing needed.

    Inductors are not polarized, but they should physically oriented so they aren't all lined up the same way. They generate small electro magnetic fields, which can interact with each other. Imagine a cube, and if you lay an inductor flat on each of 3 adjacent faces, that will orient each of them for minimal interaction.
     
  9. You shortened those directions down a bit. :)

    Instructions:
    **************
    Note: The crossover components are non directional or non polarized so they can be installed in either direction, the exception are the inductors as they often only fit one way due to the position of their leads.
    **************

    Basically it means there's no 'positive' or 'negative' wire on the crossover parts so it doesn't matter which of the two wire leads goes in the two holes on the board that are made for that specific crossover part. There's no polarity on the inductors either, but they often have to be installed in a certain direction for the wires to fit in the board. For example, on an iron core inductor the two wires are both coming out the front. If you turn the inductor around backwards those two lead wires won't be anywhere near the holes they have to go into on the board. So you have to pay attention to the direction they're facing so the wires will fit in the correct holes, but you still don't have to worry about polarity.


    Also, on the product page under the 'Helpful Notes' tab there's a link to a video showing how to assemble a crossover.
     
  10. If I went with a 19 high x 14 deep x 14 wide would the 1 inch port x 6 inch long still apply?
     
  11. Yeah a full width slot port 1" high and 6" long should still work out well there.
     
    Harro likes this.
  12. Thanks Matt
     
  13. Hi Matt or Erich,

    I have just received my Volt 10’s and have a question regarding LF L1 - 2.0mH

    The legs are too long to enter the holes in the PCB from the end that they protrude from. Can I position them with the legs at the opposite end and run them along the board to the holes in the attached picture?

    If not how do I lose the excessive length because the red coating will come through the holes and I won’t be able to solder them. I would appreciate a prompt reply because I am ready to build them

    Thank you

    Graham
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Yes you can do that. Or cut the leads to the correct length and use a utility knife (scrape with the blade sideways) to remove the coating which only takes a few seconds per lead.
     
    Graham N likes this.
  15. Would a window brace under the 10 inch driver be enough bracing? Everything is out of 3/4 in mdf.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. It should be ok.
     
  17. Guys apologise if this has already been covered. I have the HTM -12 LCR and Volt 8's v2 (angled) as my surrounds, I wanted to make some front height presence speakers which will be just over 3ft directly above my L and R front speakers.. Would the angled Volt 6 be suitable for this type of speaker? or would the volt 8's be better? I think the 6's as the smaller size would look aesthetically more pleasing but I may be wrong. Would appreciate your help. I sit approx 5 meters away from the front sound stage. Thank you.
     
  18. The Volt-6's should work well enough for that application, I'd go with those if they will look better in your space.
     
    mkohman likes this.
  19. Thank you Matt, much appreciated :)
     
  20. Hi,

    The XO for the "old" Volt 6 is publicly available? I have 3 DNA-150 CD lying around and I am looking to get 3 B-Stock Volt 6 drivers from DIYSG to assemble Volt 6 speakers.

    Better yet If I can get my hands on another DNA-150 to build 2 surrounds and 2 atmos.-

    Thanks in advance to DIYSG and Matt
     
  21. I had four custom surround boxes made to fit my in-wall recessed backer boxes (side and rear). These are basically Volt-8 Atmos flat pack sized boxes, with a ported baffle for the Volt-6 v2. Erich confirmed they should go below 80Hz.

    The internal dimensions are 9"x9"x7", resulting in .328 cubic feet (not accounting for the driver - is that math correct?).

    I assembled the crossovers myself. It was my first time soldering. Each of the boards work, but I likely need to go back and clean up the shoddy soldering.

    I ordered 3x HTM-12s today. Only two crossover assemblies were in stock. So I ordered a third board and hope to have someone assemble it. I just don't trust my novice soldering.

    My question is around the soldering contact points. After reviewing a lot of content around common soldering mistakes, I wonder how important it is to have close to perfect/ideal solder joints...thoughts?
     
  22. The solder joints really just have to conduct electricity and provide a secure connection, getting the ideal amount of solder on there for a perfect looking joint isn't really needed especially for the fairly decent sized solder pads on the PCBs. The main thing to watch for is that the solder flows onto both the solder pad on the PCB and the lead from the crossover component, looks almost like it is getting absorbed or sucked into metal. if it looks like it is pooling on the surface like a drop of water then either the soldering iron is not hot enough or the heat from the iron isn't making its way into the joint well enough and this will create a cold solder joint that can easily break loose and/or won't provide a good electrical connection.
     
  23. Hi Matt, thanks for your designs, they are simply amazing.

    what is the volume of the port for the volt-6 2?

    I ordered it without the port and would like to split the oval port into 2 round ports if possible. (1" to 1.5" would fit nice if possible, see photo)

    I tried to find the flatpack port size on AVS, every post here, etc.

    Would two 1.25" round ports 4" long work? < Total guess.

    --------------------
    Extraneous Info:
    The baffle is 8.75" H x 10.25" W (9.44" Deep, 3/4 all the way around)

    .291 cf volume without driver/port

    I plan to cross them over @ 80 Hz

    They will sit on the table behind the sofa sides as surrounds.
     

    Attached Files:

  24. Two 1.25" ports at 4" long would work great. You want tuning somewhere between 70-80hz and two of those should put it right in that range.
     

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