Volt Coaxial Speaker Kits

Discussion in 'Home Theater Speaker Kit Information' started by Matt Grant, Dec 28, 2014.

  1. Hi Matt I am in a similar kind of position.. I have ordered my volt 6's for my back surrounds. I need to keep the box as shallow as possible so I was thinking of 5 inches deep (internally) . Is this possible? I am building custom boxes so if I have the depth at 5 inches what would the width and height need to be in order to achieve the performance it should without any compromises? Thank you Matt.
  2. It would be tight but doable, the Volt-6 overall depth is 4.5".

    Assuming 5" internal depth, I'd make it around 10" wide and 14" tall, or 9" wide and 16" tall, that's external assuming 3/4" material. You could shave off 1/2" from those figures if using 1/2" panels.
    William Chenoweth and mkohman like this.
  3. Matt, I am trying to decide between the Volt8 or 10. I am needing to use an angled flat pack because I am limited to mounting the two Volts as my only surrounds mounted to the ceiling firing them downward and across the listening positions. They are being pared with 1099s for my front LCR. I will most likely be using an 80Hz crossover. So I would like a solid response down to 80Hz.
  4. 86EE3A73-0E5E-44F1-9858-B1C8ABECA691.jpeg

    It has been brought to my attention that my question above is not accurate. What I meant to ask for is advice regarding my placement situation and which kit would work better.
    With the woofer cone/waveguide being so close to the ceiling and having possible reflection issues.
  5. #280 William Chenoweth, Oct 16, 2019
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2019
    Hi Matt,

    I cannot find an Eminence 6CX WinISD file for the Volt-6 6" driver (Denova Audio CX-06), would it be fair to say that the Eminence Beta-6a is close enough? (From your original zipped WinISD speakers download from an old AVSForum thread.)

    I am basing this off of how close the SPL plots for its bigger brother the 8CX vs the 8CX. (see attached)



    Extraneous Info:
    I will get an in-room REW measurement tomorrow.

    The reason I am trying to plot it out in WinISD is because my custom cabinet table-top Volt-6s sound a bit blubbery on the low end even though Audyssey is crossing them over @70, and blocking 1 port seems to help but there is extreme air movement.(enough to knock back a toupee) Based on the Beta-6a parameters I am thinking I need to remove an inch or more from each port (currently two 1.20" round ports, each approx 3" long) and cross them over at 90 or 100hz since the bass under that range is not desirable IMO unless the volume is too high. (But my room has an issue right around 90hz, so I am scared I might be harming them more than helping at this point, or should I embrace the VBSS and try to use the NX6000 DSP to balance everything out since I only use the VBSS @ about 10-20% of its capacity?)

    Original Flatpack Volt-6 Ported Cabinet Volume:
    8"w x 12"h x 6.75"d
    .375 cf (without drivers & ports)

    Finalized Tabletop Volt-6 Ported Cabinet Volume:
    8"w x 12"h x 6.75"d
    .275 cf (without drivers & ports)

    SS_Eminence-Beta8Avs8CX_WinISD-SPL.gif SS_Driver-Specs_Eminence-Beta-8CX-vs-8a.gif _Custom-Denova-Volt-6_aluminum-stand.jpg SS_WinISD_Volt-6_SPL-plottedAT-80-95-and-110hz.gif
  6. I am pretty sure I am overthinking this whole thing. I can't wait to take in-room SPL measurements with REW.

    If the 6A is even close to the 6CX then: (Is it Matt? This is my only question in this entire post unless I am assuming incorrectly)

    A. It looks like my little custom Volt-6s are currently tuned somewhere around 85hz using both 1.25" diameter circle ports 3 inches long in 0.25 CF. (By plugging one 3" long port, the current tune changes to 60hz is probably why they sound better when set to large speakers but still lack down low, so it is a moot point.)

    B. Removing 1 inch from each port (2 inches long) will change the Volt-6 tune to 100hz/2 ports OR 70hz/1 port respectively. See attached.

    Since I have 4 extra ports, I think I am going to cut 4 of them in half and tape them together so the inside has the same flanged end as the front has while changing the length 1/2" at a time until I lock onto something useful. (It is currently straight.) While taking raw REW measurements as the ports get smaller.

    If anything, this has been a good exercise giving me a new perspective in the world of speaker building. I will be preaching that especially if I end up keeping the 3-inch ports I started with. [smacks forehead]

  7. OK I JUST LEARNED A GREAT DEAL. I will write a quick overview here just in-case it might help someone else trying to "perfect their port".

    Firstly, REW is amazing. Secondly, I should not have been so worried about the ports because Matt's 1st suggestion to me was right on the nose. Not that it matter's much anyway. As you can see from the SPL Plots, my room is my biggest enemy and it does not matter where the microphone is pointed in the MLP (Main Listening Position), if the Volt is not perfectly directed at the MLP, or if you change the tuning from 60 hz to 90 hz because your beautiful sound (see top of plots, they were taken 4 inches from the Volt 6) is most rudely reshaped into whatever the room wants it to be. (See the cluster of plots at the bottom taken at the MLP) And in just 2 feet forward from the MLP you might be a completely different problem.

    Volt-6 in a 2.75 sq foot cabinet with TWO 1.25 diameter round ports, both 3 inches long.

    Overview Top 3 Plots: (All taken 4 inches from speaker, so room influence is minimal)
    #1 Dark Blue Shows the 2 port configuration - 6dB gain in the low-end compared to 3rd Sealed Plot but does not get as low.
    #2 Dark Green Shows the 1 port configuration - 3dB-4dB gain in the low-end compared to the 3rd Sealed Plot.
    #3 Cyan Shows the Volt 6 Sealed - Baseline Driver Extension

    Overview Bottom 7 Plots: (All taken from the MLP)
    #1-7 Rainbow Loving - Shows as many changes as I could think of while keeping the mic within a 1 foot area to the MLP
    -Changed Tuning by stuffing a port
    -1 plot shows the mic directed all the way back towards the kitchen while another is directed towards the TV
    - Another shows me directing the speaker directly at the MLP because it sets off-center 30 degrees to reach the whole sofa

    My Favorite? The first Dark Blue Plot Since I will be crossing them over anywhere from 80 to 100. Geeeez Well at least I know its right.

    Now it is time to play around with sofa placement again. I did this for days only recording the LCRs and VBSS, so hopefully I can figure out why there are weird dips in odd places.

    Its too bad I cant use the Room Simulator in REW because I think that might help me understand "nulls" or "suckouts" or whatever they are called (like at ~65hz on my plots) :( Big Sad Face.
    sugarbear likes this.
  8. William,

    Love your Volt 6 build--always good to see that smallish driver (For DIYSG anyway) Always wondered and pondered the 6.5 incher and what the T/S parameters would be. Take the CX-10 motor/voice coil/spider and throw on the Beta 6 cone makes a lot of sense. I would hazard to guess that the large acoustic dust cap would weigh the cone down which would lead to a lowering of Fs and knock off a bit of sensitivity. The Beta 6 at 94dB and the Volt 6 at 93dB would follow my attempt at logic. (I try!) All in all, a great design that can make it to 80Hz when mounted on a wall quite easily and do well stand alone.

    I use the CX-10 mywelf, nice coax when crossed at 1,500 Hz with a beefy crompression driver (PSD2013 and the like) I ponder if Erich would sell just the 6.5" driver by itself--I'd like to play around with one and screw in the PSD2013 and putz around with the XO and see if I have the "dark art of crossover building" in my tool box. Granted, the thing would be a monster and weigh over 12 pounds--a bit "much" for a 6.5" coax but such is DIY. My ponderings have to do with "timbre matching" to the much larger CX-10 compression driver because although the ten has great performance, the size does get in the way for surrounds in most cases.

    Thanks again for posting your results with the mighty mouse Volt 6 build--great driver and a snazzy design--good stuff! Seriously thinking about emailing Erich to see if I could get a pair of the CX-6 drivers to mess around with--your results want me to build more speakers, not sure if that is a good thing or not. Have a great weekend!
  9. What Volts will be coming back? It's more of a what question than a when.

    I need two more Volt 10s to complete the speakers in my theater build. Right now I'm somewhat torn between angled or without the flat pack for my particular setup, and could go either way, though I'm probably leaning towards the angled flat pack. I see there are some angled Volt 8s in the clearance section and it's otherwise down to just out of stock straight Volt 10s. I know for surround duty mixing some 8s with 10s probably won't matter in the end, but I'm pedantic enough to want them all to match. All things considered I would rather not get the angled Volt 8s, and I can be patient for a little while.

    Any advice or foresight you can lend?
    Pat likes this.
  10. I am also looking for the Volts. Im looking for the Volt6's for more Atmos.

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