Anybody know if a ported version of the volt10lx coming anytime soon? If not, can anybody help me design a good ported box for these volt 10lx? I am using my big living room as a theater and would like to take advantage of the ported design.
Nothing really set for a ported Volt-10LX flat pack design yet. Though I can help with a ported box design, any size constraints? You would likely need to build your own baffle as the regular 14"x14" baffle does not leave many options for ported enclosures other then a awkwardly deep box. Something I had an idea for was one 13"wide x 19"high x 12" deep. It is just about as compact of a ported enclosure that would be useful. With 3/4" material it should net just over 1cuft, though it could be made from 1/2" if well braced. It would use two of these ports cut to 6" long: http://www.parts-express.com/speaker-cabinet-port-tube-2-1-2-id-x-8-1-2-l-flared--260-478 Or a full width slot port on the bottom, 1" high and also made 6" long. A larger ported enclosure is possible if deeper extension is desired. The one above should have decent output down to 50-60hz.
Thank you for the suggestion. The more I think about it, I might just go with sealed since I will crossover these speakers at 80hz. I guess deeper extension for these volts is kinda useless for my surround use huh? Now I need to figure out how to solder. You guys really need to offer these crossover fully assembled and charge a little bit more for it Im sure alot of people would be more than happy to paid the extra money vs buying all these tools just for the crossover.
Matt, I have been using my Volt 10 LX's for a couple weeks now for side surrounds and am very happy with them. Thanks for the help with the size for the depth! Now I am think about my rear surrounds. I'd like to go as skinny as possible but am thinking about going with the Volt 8. I want to go sealed instead of ported and want the width and depth to be as small as possible and the height can be whatever it needs to be to make up for it. So... 10 inches wide? 4-5 inches deep? Is that possible? If so how tall should it be? thanks!
You could probably get away with an enclosure that is 10" wide x 6" deep x 14" high. You are limited in depth by that of the driver which is 5.125" + whatever the rear cabinet panel thickness is and a little for the wires to the DNA-150. Thus the 6" figure which will be tight but should leave just enough room. Rolloff for the Volt-8 in a sealed enclosure will be higher, around 120-130hz. Though a small dip in output between that and 80hz should not be too noticeable for a surround channel if you are limited to an 80hz crossover, if you can cross them higher like 100-120hz that would work better.
Ok thanks. Rolling off that high I think I might just try to squeeze in another pair of Volt 10 LX's. Here's the side surrounds. Watched Fellowship of the Ring last night with our oldest daughter for her first time and I'm very happy with the lower on the wall placement as well as the sound of the Volt's. Worthwhile upgrade. 8) Now I just need to repair the hole in the wall from the previous speaker placement.
Hey Carp what are your dimensions for the Square Volt Box. I bought some of the angled flat packs but was thinking of doing some Atmos ceiling speakers and I think flat would be the way to go
Last week I ordered a pair of the volt-8 with angled flat pack. Does anyone know the approximate weight of one of the speakers when complete? I am going to mount them on a wall or ceiling. I was thinking about installing a 1/4 x 20 t-nut in the box and hanging it with one of the various "Bolt" hangers. But, the weight may prevent that. Does anyone have any other ideas? I am ordering some of the extra hardware and figure I would order a mounting solution at the same time. Any ideas would be appreciated.
I think it is in the range of 25-30lbs, most use a French Cleat style bracket for wall mounting: http://www.parts-express.com/hangman-asm6-2-b-speaker-hanging-kit-2-pcs--182-168 If the studs are in the correct location you can drill a hole or two in the back of the enclosure then just drive a screw right through that hole into the stud and install the driver when finished.
Hi Gents, I just ordered a pair of Volt 6's i'd try for computer speakers/monitors (maybe add a sub later). 2 questions: 1. i saw .2uft - .35 for the volume. Any recommendations on the box size with 3/4" material? I don't need the angled flat pack since they'll just be on my desk in the corners (probably close to wall). 2. Anyone have a nice amp they recommend to drive these? Most likely used primarily for computer speakers (music/games) and perhaps bluetooth audio. Was thinking about this: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-apa100-class-ab-stereo-amplifier-60-wpc--300-590 Thanks all!
Hi, couple of questions if anyone can help? I would like to use the Volt 10 LX for ATMOS ceiling speakers. Planning to cut holes in my triple ply ceiling and put the box between the ceiling joist. Joists run the width of the room. I could use the angled flatpack for 14"wide x14"long enclosure (11" of available depth in the joist) or, I can go as wide as I want if it benefits the speaker any 14x24, 14x30 etc. Any compelling reason to go bigger than 14" wide? I would still angle the driver so it shoots over the front row ears and rears shoot over 2nd row ears towards fron row.
Does that extra capacitor also apply to the 10LX if building a 7" box? What's the crossover on it with the smaller box? 100-120hz?
Would this size also work for the ported Volt 8? I have 4 on order and wondering how much I can slice off the front baffle without affecting the supplied crossover.
No the ported volt-8 needs a larger volume to work well, at very least 0.35cuft and is better with 0.45-0.7 cuft.
OK thanks. Would I get away with the ported 8" measuring 15x11x6 external measurements with maybe half inch MDF on the back?
Another quick question in relation to filling. I'm thinking that if I trim off the rounded edges I can make a cabinet roughly 10x25x6 which will give me a volume of 0.45 cubic feet when using some bracing and 3/4" MDF. I'd have the baffle upside down to most photos with the woofer on the bottom and the ports just above it. What would be the best way to fill the speaker using something like attic insulation (fibreglass/mineral wool material)? Pad out the area behind the woofer so the speaker actually pushes the padding down, leave behind the ports with no padding and then pad above the ports (in what should be around 10 inches or so)?
Has anyone tried the Volt-8's in the ceiling as an infinite baffle? I know that the Volt-10's perform well in an IB, but I was just curious about the 8's.
Yes this could work. You may not need insulation above the ports just some around and behind the woofer, leaving the top open to the ports.
They will work IB but it is best if you use a crossover setting of at least 100-120hz to prevent over excursion. You should not be able to hurt the driver with an 80hz crossover powered by an AVR with 100-150w channel as the suspension soft bottoms, so at worst you might notice some suspension noises in scenes where there is bass heavy content in the surrounds.
This might sound like a dumb question but does it matter where the ports are? As in could I have the 8" woofer at the bottom (front) of a 24" tall cabinet and the ports at the top (front) of the cabinet? (I'm just trying to figure ways to screw the speaker directly to a wall so I'd need access to the top and bottom screws from inside the cabinet). Also could I replace the ports with two 8" Dayton PR's like you did with that tall Volt 10?
Thanks for the info. I think i'll just try to make the Volt 10's work so I can really enjoy the surrounds.